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The Top Brass: It's a woman's world - but don't think they're just

Independent on Sunday, The,  Jan 4, 2004  

Noella Gabriel

"There was a time when beauty therapists were seen as not very bright," says Noella Gabriel, 45, director of treatment development at Elemis, the skincare and aromatherapy specialist.

"But today's practitioners are intelligent beasts, and I think people are gradually coming to understand this."

Ms Gabriel, who comes from Ireland, opened a shop selling health products in her home town of Cork when she was just 19. She then moved to Dublin to work as a beauty therapist by day and study for business qualifications at night school, before spending three years in New York. Here she studied a range of complementary therapies, including shiatsu massage, reflexology and aromatherapy. Returning to Europe, she worked in the beauty spa at the London department store Harvey Nichols; in 1990 she joined Elemis.

"I've always had a huge interest in how an individual's personality reflects the state of their body," says Ms Gabriel. "I love planting that seed of awareness to help people maintain their own bodies.

"I would advise anyone wanting to move into this industry to make sure you are not simply fulfilling your mother's ambitions.

"Real beauty therapy is about inner beauty, not just painting nails and tinting eyelashes. For this reason, I often prefer to take on a girl straight out of college with a real thirst for the industry, rather than someone who has been in it a long time and has no yearning to change."

Rhona Gilmore

Rhona Gilmore, 51, is a UK distributor for French skincare company Carole Franck and has her own salon in Taunton, Somerset. A council member for the British Association of Beauty Therapy and Cosmetology, she is also BBC Radio Bristol's in-house beauty expert.

"Beauty therapy is riding on the crest of a wave, thanks to celebrities showing great interest and endorsing various treatments."

Susan Harmsworth

Susan Harmsworth, 58, is chief executive and founder of the health spa and beauty product consultancy ESPA International (UK), which she runs with her two sons. Recent projects include spas at the Mandarin Oriental hotel in London and the Regent Beverly Wilshire in Los Angeles.

"I carry a passion for the spa industry through to all areas of my business."

Amanda Lacey

Amanda Lacey, 39, is known for her development of facials that mix her own massage techniques with cleansing lotions and rehydration treatments. She has also developed a range of skincare products, sold under her own name, including rose water, skin tonic, pomades and moisturisers.

"This industry is tough and without mercy. I believe my greatest achievement is still ahead of me."

Eve Lom

Eve Lom, 53, is widely acknowledged as a beauty guru and pioneer of oil-based cleansing for skincare. She has practised the art of the facial since the early 1980s, and has a waiting list of four months for an appointment at her salon in Marylebone, London.

"Our profession cannot be mastered with the use of expensive machines and elaborate processes. It takes time, and demands dedication, commitment and, above all, humility."

Jo Malone

Jo Malone, 39, describes herself as "the girl who does faces". She opened her first facial massage clinic in her own flat in 1983 with just a handful of clients. Today, she runs eight stores across the UK and Ireland and is planning to expand her business in the United States. Last year, she launched her own series of beauty products.

"With good care, you can encourage your skin to achieve its optimum condition."

Linda Meredith

Lacking formal training, Linda Mere-dith, 50, opened a salon in Knightsbridge, central London, six years ago with just pounds 10 in the bank. She now has a client list including Madonna and Victoria Beckham, and is known for treatments such as her "oxygen facial".

"This job requires hard work and determination - you need to care passionately about what you do."

Deborah Mitchell

Deborah Mitchell, 37, is the founder of Heaven Health & Beauty. She has been developing its skincare and beauty products for more than 15 years, and recently opened her own training school. She is currently creating a range of products for men.

"Your face tells the story of your life. It's not possible to change the past but [beauty products] will change the way you look in the future."

Lynn Rushton

Lynn Rushton, 35, trains beauty therapists and helps research and develop new treatments for the cosmetics and cleansers company Clarins UK. Under the instruction of Jacques Courtin-Clarins, she has worked on skin treatments for pregnant women and new product ranges for men.

"My passion is fuelled by the desire to ensure that a treatment is always adapted to answer individual needs."

Julie Ward

Julie Ward, 34, specialises in skin problems including acne and premature ageing. A facial expert at Martyn Maxey salon in Mayfair, London, she trained at Chichester Beauty College.

"Beauty therapy is growing at a fast pace, yet demand is not being met as there seems to be a skills shortage."