The brine and the beauty

With more of Britain's coastal footpaths set to be opened up to the public this year, Mark Rowe suggests five spectacular trails to follow along our shores

WALKS OF THE YEAR

From the high cliffs of east Yorkshire, the crenulated coves of north Cornwall, or the eerie light of the Wash in Norfolk, the British coast is among the most magical places to walk and 2008 is a significant year for coastal access. At some point, the Westminster government is to legislate to create a coastal "corridor" around England, which will run for some 2,800 miles from Marshall Meadows in Northumberland to Land's End and north to Cumbria. Wales is already implementing a similar project, allowing visitors to walk around its 800 miles of coastline. Scotland, meanwhile, passed legislation that included access to the coast in 2003. Here we suggest five walks that take in some spectacular parts of British coastline.

Llyn peninsula,

North Wales

The coastal path along the Llyn peninsula in north Wales has an intangible grandeur. Linking the ancient church of St Beuno at Clynnog Fawr, to Aberdaron and Bardsey Island, the 47-mile path, promoted as the Edge of Wales walk, takes in ancient Celtic routes and scheduled ancient monuments. Habitats change dramatically, from winding lanes and farmed valleys to beaches and cliff tops, wild headlands, moorland and narrow sheep tracks. Apart from glorious views, you can expect to see birds such as stonechat and the rare chough, along with birds of prey such as peregrine. The route can be walked comfortably in four days. The final stretch, to Aberdaron and its enchanting 12th-century church, the boat to Bardsey Island - look out for puffins and oystercatchers - and the ruins of St Mary's Abbey is as rewarding as any along the way. Find out more at edgeofwaleswalk.co.uk

Fife Coastal Path

The Fife Coastal Path runs for 80 miles from Culross and the Forth Bridges to the Tay Bridges, passing through Kirkcaldy and St Andrews along the way. While the inner parts of the Forth are fairly developed, the industrial scenery is soon left behind for a rugged coast, and fishing villages as you head east and north. The wildlife is outstanding with grey seals and, in summer, common and bottlenose dolphins and possibly basking sharks. The off-shore islands of Inchcolm, Inchkeith and the Isle of May host seabirds, including large colonies of puffins. The walk can be completed in less than a week but the first half of it (heading east) particularly lends itself to day walks, because you can follow the coast for a few miles and then hop on a train, for example at Aberdour or Kinghorn. Go to fifecoastalpath.co.uk

Isle of Wight

Although the Isle of Wight measures just 23 miles by 13, it has more than 500 miles of official footpaths, one of the densest concentrations in the UK. Much of its coast is accessible (with more to be opened up under the coastal access plans for England). One of the finest sections runs for 14 miles from Yarmouth on the north- west of the island, anti-clockwise to Brighstone Bay. The route crosses the River Yar before following an old military road through woodland, via Colwell Bay to The Needles, the island's most distinctive landmark. To stand above these pinnacles, and avoid the arcades, make for the National Trust's Gun Battery, though there is an admission charge. The path then sweeps over Tennyson Down, above majestic Freshwater Bay, before reaching Brighstone village. A detailed description of this walk features in The Coastal Path and Inland Trails on the Isle of Wight, purchased from local tourist offices. Go to iow.gov.uk.

North Cornwall

Padstow has been rejuvenated in recent years, partly attributed to the "Rick Stein" effect of destination restaurants. But one of the finest stretches of the Cornish coast path strikes west from the town. A 15-mile walk follows the north Cornish coast to Bedruthan Steps, from where a bus can take you back to town. The path quickly gains height to Stepper Point, with outstanding views over the Camel estuary. Passing collapsed caves, the path crosses a series of delightful beaches, including Harlyn Bay, and Trevose Head, where you pass beneath the lighthouse. The path navigates the graceful beach of Porthcothan Bay. From here, it is two miles to Bedruthan Steps, named for the perpendicular staircase that all but plummets to the beach below. Finish the walk back at what must be one of the best views from a National Trust teahouse anywhere. Go to southwestcoastpath.com

South Downs and Seven Sisters

The South Downs and Sussex coast are packed with beauty and historical interest and can be explored along this five-mile walk starting in Birling Gap. The highlight is the spectacle of the Seven Sisters, chalk cliffs spread across 280 hectares of open chalk downland in the South Downs Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The first part of the walk from Birling Gap follows the South Downs Way, which links Eastbourne and Winchester. It turns inland by the remains of cottages claimed by the sea, a powerful reminder of the dynamic nature of the coast. Finally, you return from East Dean to Birling Gap along a former smugglers' path. This walk is one of 39 Neptune Walks along the British coast compiled by the National Trust downloadable at nationaltrust.org.uk.

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