48 hours in San Francisco

WHY GO NOW?

"San Francisco is a mad city... inhabited for the most part by perfectly insane people." So said Rudyard Kipling in 1889. San Francisco today remains as unpredictable as it is eclectic. Brightly painted Victorian terraces sit cheek-by-jowl with towering skyscrapers, while creaking cable cars give way to streamlined bridges. The summer months may, perversely, see foggy weather drawn in from the Pacific, but this fails to dampen the city's festive spirit. From the Jewish Film Festival (22-29 July) and the Japanese Summer Festival (24-25 July), to the North Beach Jazz Festival (28 July-1 August), summer is party time. For further details contact the San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau (00 1 415 391 2000; www.sfvisitor.org).

TOUCH DOWN

Three airlines fly non-stop between London Heathrow and San Francisco: United Airlines (0845 844 4777; www.unitedairlines.co.uk), British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com) and Virgin Atlantic (0870 380 2007; www.virgin- atlantic.com). In July and August expect to pay around pounds 650-pounds 700. The best deals will probably be through a discount agency such as Trailfinders (020-7937 5400) which has non- stop flights on United from Heathrow from pounds 643 for travel until 21 August, or on Air France via Paris for around pounds 624, for departures until 20 August. To travel the 14 miles from the airport to downtown San Francisco, take a 30-minute ride on Bart (Bay Area Rapid Transit) to Powell Street station, near Union Square; fare $5 (pounds 3). Alternatively, a taxi will take around 20 minutes, traffic permitting, and cost around $30 (pounds 17.50).

GET YOUR BEARINGS

The east of the city faces the Bay, the west the crashing Pacific; the waters meet at the tip of the peninsula under the Golden Gate Bridge which links San Francisco to Marin County. This relaxed city is a quirky mosaic of more than 20 small, eclectic neighbourhoods. The opulent Civic Centre, tourist hotspot Union Square and the Financial District sit alongside the urban grit of the Tenderloin area. You could also find yourself in the hippy haven of Haight- Ashbury, the beatnik cafe culture of North Beach, the millionaire estates of Pacific Heights, the edgy Latino Mission district or the colourful, gay Castro area. The close proximity of each makes it easy to negotiate on foot - but the comprehensive Muni network of buses, cable cars and streetcars comes in handy for those steep hills. A three- day unlimited travel pass costs $15 (pounds 8) from the Visitor Information Centre (1) at 900 Market Street.

CHECK IN

The battle to be the hottest establishment in town is currently being fought by two slick properties. One is Ian Schrager's Clift Hotel (2) at 495 Geary Street in the Tenderloin (00 1 415 775 4700; www.clifthotel.com), an airy establishment punctuated with surreal Philippe Starck touches, such as the black bowler hat and green apple stool sitting in the lobby; double rooms from $336 (pounds 198) excluding breakfast. The other is the W Hotel (3) at 181 Third Street (00 1 415 777 5300; www.whotels.com) in SoMa (SOuth of MArket Street), which boasts elegant monochrome decor and attracts a cool cocktail-sipping crowd; doubles from $489 (pounds 287) excluding breakfast.

For a taste of the city's past, the Archbishop's Mansion (4) at 1000 Fulton Street (00 1 415 563 7872, www.thearchbishopsmansion.com) is home to 15 opera-titled rooms and suites, complete with claw- footed baths and four-poster beds; doubles from $165 (pounds 97) with breakfast. Among the best budget hotels is North Beach's San Remo (5) at 2237 Mason Street (00 1 415 776 8688, www.sanremohotel. com) which offers spotless rooms with antique wicker furniture in a former boarding house for dock workers; doubles from $57 (pounds 33.50).

TAKE A VIEW

In this city of hills, panoramic vistas are impossible to avoid. For a postcard-perfect view, make your way up Telegraph Hill via the Filbert Street steps, a peaceful, flower-strewn path winding past quirky cottages. A flock of wild parrots lives amid the hawthorn and plum trees. Coit Tower (6) is perched majestically at the top. The 1933 tower, a gift from the philanthropist Lillie Hitchcock Coit, is 210ft high and is, thankfully, equipped with a lift. From the top it provides stunning vistas of the bay as well as North Beach, Fisherman's Wharf and the Financial District. The tower is open 10am- 7pm daily, admission $3 (pounds 1.75) (00 1 415 362 0808).

LUNCH ON THE RUN

Mingle with the locals by joining the queue at the Swan Oyster Depot (7), a 1912 city institution and former fish market at 1517 Polk Street (00 1 415 673 1101). Friendly and boisterous staff serve a delicious selection of oysters, classic clam chowder and smoked- salmon salads. Or grab a takeaway of sun-dried tomatoes and tortellini at the best deli in North Beach, Molinari's (8) at 373 Columbus Avenue and people-watch in nearby Washington Square.

WINDOW SHOPPING

For the best of the city's quirky second-hand bargains, head to the heart of Haight-Ashbury, where crocodile-skin handbags and vintage dresses sell for less than $20 (pounds 12) at the Buffalo Exchange (9) at 1555 Haight Street (00 1 415 431 7733). Take a stroll through the stylish boutiques of Hayes Valley and visit True Sake (10), 560 Hayes Street (00 1 415 355 9555), a store dedicated to the "drink of the gods" with more than 90 brands in exquisite bottles. For a slice of designer heaven, slip away from the department stores of Union Square and wander down nearby Maiden Lane, home of Marc Jacobs (11) at number 125 (00 1 415 921 9575).