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Travel Etc: Grand tours: Follow in the footsteps of Anthony Trollope

Independent, The (London), Dec 16, 2001 by Ed Sexton

A literary education

When Anthony Trollope was sent to Winchester College in 1827, at the age of 12, the city was emerging from a long period of decline, reinventing itself as a centre of trade and tourism. When Trollope came to write the six books that make up the Barchester Chronicles, more than 25 years later, his knowledge of Winchester influenced many features of his fictional city.

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Winchester Cathedral (01962 857200, www. winchester- cathedral.org.uk) is the city's most impressive monument, and at 556ft the longest cathedral in Europe. King Cenwealth ordered the construction of the first cathedral on this site in 648, and Winchester's most famous bishop and patron saint, St Swithun, was resident for a decade in the ninth century. Work on the current building began in 1079, although most of its spires and buttresses date from the 14th century. The cathedral was saved from collapsing early in the 20th century by William Walker, immortalised as "Diver Bill", who spent seven hazardous years working in the marsh water under its foundations to replace the peat with concrete.

As well as its connection with the works of Trollope, the cathedral has other literary associations. Jane Austen, who died in Winchester, is buried in the north aisle, and there is a stained- glass memorial to Izaak Walton, author of The Compleat Angler, in the south transept. A visitors' centre, with a shop and restaurants, tells the story of the cathedral and has listings of current events. The choir sings every day, except Wednesday and Sunday, at 5.30pm evensong. For full details of services and music for Christmas, see the cathedral's website (above). The cathedral is open from 8am to 5pm and visitors are welcome to attend services.

Winchester College (01962 621227, www.wincoll.ac.uk/ toc.asp), founded by William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, is more than 600 years old. You can visit the cloisters Trollope knew as a boy and hear about the school ghosts on one of the guided tours, which take place every day of the week during term (call for times). Tickets are pounds 2.50 for adults, pounds 2 for children and concessions.

Alms and the men

Trollope's first story about Barchester, The Warden, is believed to be set around St Cross Hospital (01962 878218, www.stcrosshospital. co.uk). The hospital is actually England's oldest almshouse, founded in 1132 by William the Conqueror's grandson. It was a regular stop-over for Canterbury pilgrims, and often housed crusaders heading to the port of Southampton.

Today it is still home to 25 "brothers", who contribute their skills to the hospital in return for board and lodging. Visitors are welcome between 10.30am and 3.30pm during the winter, except on Sundays when services are held. Although refreshments are available in the restored Hundred Men's Hall, you can still ask for Wayfarer's Dole - a mug of ale and piece of bread traditionally given to travellers.

The mill on the Itchen

Located in Bridge Street, the recently restored Winchester City Mill (01962 870057, www.winchestercitymill. co.uk) was built over the River Itchen in 1744. Now a National Trust property, it is currently closed for the winter, reopening in March. The mill's multimedia exhibits are complemented by occasional milling demonstrations. The shop, which stays open during the winter months, offers a range of local produce.

For those planning more than a short visit to the city, the Sir Harold Hillier Gardens and Arboretum (01794 368787, www.hillier. hants.gov.uk) can be found outside Winchester, three miles north- east of Romsey. The site covers 180 acres and contains around 12,000 types of plants. It is open all year round except Christmas Day and Boxing Day, from 10.30am to dusk. The recently completed, 2.5-acre winter garden is the largest of its kind in Europe and contains 650 plant varieties. Entry is pounds 4.25; under-16s get in free.

Where to eat/where to stay

If the bread on offer at St Cross Hospital is insufficient, Winchester's tea shops are concentrated on the High Street. For something more substantial, try the numerous restaurants around Jewry Street. The city's main shopping area is in The Square, where most of the crafts and gift shops are situated, while a market is held from Wednesday to Saturday each week.

The Wessex Hotel (0870 400 8126) is right next to the cathedral; en-suite rooms cost from pounds 90 per person per night. Winchester also has lots of guesthouses and b&bs in the pounds 15 to pounds 25 range, so finding somewhere to stay should not be a problem.

Getting there

Fast trains run regularly from Waterloo. A standard five-day return costs pounds 21.60; to book, call 0845 600 0650. National Express (08705 808080, www.gobycoach.com) runs coaches from Victoria coach station; the journey takes about two hours and costs pounds 15 for a period return.

Travel Etc: Grand tours: Follow in the footsteps of Anthony Trollope

Independent, The (London), Dec 16, 2001 by Ed Sexton

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