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Ireland: 48 hours in Musical Dublin

Independent, The (London), May 26, 2001 by Ben Ross

THE ICING ON THE CAKE

What better than to catch a glimpse of local heroes Bono or The Edge? The wood-panelled Octagon Bar at the Clarence Hotel (6) is your most likely bet for celeb-spotting. But if it really is cake you're after, combine rock'n'roll and sticky buns by visiting Bewley's Oriental Cafe (29) on Grafton Street (00 353 1 635 5470). Fill your face in the sumptuous, stained- glass surrounds of the ground-floor eatery and ponder on the fact that it was here, when punk was king, that a young Bob Geldof penned "Rat Trap" for the Boomtown Rats. Cool.

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...And then post it into one of Dublin's many green post boxes - a strangely disorientating sight for British tourists. Guinness-themed cards are the most popular, so perhaps as you write home you'll reflect on the view - self-deprecatingly held by some Irish folk musicians - that their ballads are always about one of five things: emigration, lost love, poverty, war or drink. And that the first four are always the consequence of the last.

A WALK IN THE PARK

Swap the throbbing techno beat of your Guinness-provoked hangover for the birdsong of Merrion Square (27), where the summer blooms are spectacular. Alternatively, head for St Stephen's Green (28) where, from mid-June, you can take in a relaxing lunchtime concert at the bandstand.

SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH

As far as interiors go, the most rock'n'roll church in Dublin is the Newman University Church (24) on St Stephen's Green South (admission free). The painted ceiling and neo-Byzantine interior is strange and glorious. Alternatively, for spiritual music, sung Eucharist and choral matins take place at 11.15am at St Patrick's Church (25) (IRpounds 2 admission).

BRACING BRUNCH

Local boy Oscar Wilde once said, "Only dull people are brilliant at breakfast", so in that spirit, head for the tastefully wooded interior of the Mermaid Cafe (26) on Dame Street (00 353 1 670 8236), where quiet contemplation of the day's newspapers over a bruschetta- based all-day brunch and a Bloody Mary will set you back IRpounds 12.

WHY GO NOW?

Music is Dublin's beating heart. And with a civic renaissance fuelled by years of EU investment, now music lovers can enjoy what's on offer, be it a traditional Irish session held in a smoky room above a pub, or chamber music at the AIB Music Festival in Great Irish Houses (8-17 June, 00 353 1 278 1528) in cosmopolitan comfort. What's more, Ireland has at last drawn a veil over its embarrassing run of Eurovision success in the Nineties, with this month's disastrous showing apparently spelling the end of its participation - which can only increase the country's musical cred. Finally, with eight airlines competing on the price of flights from the UK to Dublin, paying your respects to the place where U2 are treated like royalty needn't cost the earth.

BEAM DOWN

I travelled as a guest of Aer Lingus (0845 9737 747, www. aerlingus.com) which flies from seven UK airports and can arrange car hire for pounds 16 per day. Fares start at pounds 79 return during June. For details of this and other routes to Dublin, see page 11. There are various coach links at Dublin Airport (1) for the 40- minute journey to the city (IRpounds 4).

GET YOUR BEARINGS

The pubs of Temple Bar, to the south of the River Liffey, are the focus for traditional music in Dublin. Useful maps of the area are posted at intersections. Elsewhere, brown-and-white signs point out the many tourist sites. First things first: head for the Dublin Tourist Centre (2) (www.visitdublin.com) on Suffolk Street, a converted church. The staff can arrange accommodation and tickets for most events, including big venues such as The Point at East Link Bridge (3) (00 353 1 836 3633) and the Gaiety Theatre (4) on South King Street (00 353 1 677 1717), and you'll be able to pick up a free copy of listings guide The List here.

CHECK IN

Accommodation doesn't come cheap in Dublin, and it doesn't come much more expensive than at the brand new Four Seasons Hotel (5) at Ballsbridge (00 353 1 665 4000, www.fourseasons.com). With rooms from IRpounds 280 a night, this is for the well-heeled music lover only, although its proximity to the Royal Dublin Society's Showgrounds open- air venue (00 353 1 668 0866, www.rds.ie) is a bonus. The Clarence Hotel (6) on Wellington Quay (00 353 1 670 9000), owned by U2's Bono and The Edge, is Dublin's rock'n'roll hang out, with prices starting at IRpounds 210. More affordable is the Clifton Court Hotel (7) (00 353 1 874 3535, www.cliftoncourthotel.com) at IRpounds 70 a double room, with the popular Lanigan's bar. One of the many backpacker options is Avalon House (8) on Aungier Street (00 353 1 475 0001). A double room with a shower is IRpounds 22.

TAKE A HIKE

You might have to run to catch the once glitzy, now grimy Hot Press Irish Music Hall Of Fame (9) on Abbey Street Middle (IRpounds 6, 00 353 1 878 3345) as rumours surround its future. Instead, get to know Temple Bar before the hordes of revellers arrive. The Temple Bar Music Centre (10) on Curved Street (00 353 1 670 9202) is worth a look: it's one of the best rock venues in Dublin and features gigs by local bands during weekend afternoons. Alternatively, stroll to the George Street Arcade (11), a pretty indoor market that's great for second-hand records.

Ireland: 48 hours in Musical Dublin

Independent, The (London), May 26, 2001 by Ben Ross

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