Almost ready to fly: Warbird guide

An old saying among fighter pilots goes, "There are only two kinds of airplanes-fighters and targets!" Among modelers, there's no denying the popularity of the former-especially WW II fighters. Aircraft such as the P-51 Mustang, F4U Corsair and Supermarine Spitfire are superstar icons of the battles fought over Europe and in the Pacific theater. It is probably safe to say that modelers everywhere have, at one time or another, looked forward to flying a warbird. With the popularity of almost-ready-tofly (ARF) models at an all-time high and with so many well-built ARF warbirds to choose from, there has never been a better time to treat yourself to that fighter than right now!

To complement the high-performance fighters described in this guide, we include details on popular military trainer aircraft from the 1950s and earlier. There are squadrons of aircraft to pick from; regardless of which insignia you want on the wings, there's sure to be something here for you. You, too, can fly a warbird!

Built to last

ARFs are constructed of three basic materials: wood, fiberglass and laminated foam/plastic. Each has its assets and drawbacks, but all of the ARF kits described in this guide are well engineered and go together relatively easily. Here are a few facts to think about when you decide which type of kit to buy.

Wood-very commonly used for ARF warbird Its that require only minor assembly of prebuilt parts that often arrive covered with heat-shrink plastic film. Wings are usually supplied in halves for shipping, but several of the newer models come with one-piece wings. Wooden ARFs are relatively easy to repair, and the repaired areas can be covered with new film covering.

Fiberglass--used for parts such as engine cowls, belly pans and wingtips and even for the entire fuselage. Fiberglass kits are very light and save you time and effort because they are often already painted and have decals applied.

Strengthening plywood bulkheads are factory-installed in the fuselage at key stress points. During rough landings or other mishaps, paint can crack away from the fiberglass as it flexes under stress. Repair major damage with an internal patch of fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin or even thin CA. When cutting a painted fiberglass cowl to accommodate the engine, be careful not to chip the paint; if you do chip it, you might be able to apply thin CA around the opening, sand the area smooth and touch it up with matching fuelproof paint.

Laminated foam and Mylar plasticoften referred to as "EZ" construction, this is very light and strong and has been used for many years in ARF construction. Surface details and markings are frequently printed right on the material, which is then coated with a clear protective finish at the factory. Details such as panel lines, rivets and fuel caps make models look more like the real thing without any effort on your part. Vacuum-formed plastic partsengine cowl, top fuselage turtle deck, wingtips, stabilizer and fin tips and belly pans, for examplehelp give these models their finishing touches. Though the material looks very attractive, the laminated foam that covers the strong underlying wooden structure can be difficult to repair. Don't use a CA glue to mend breaks unless you know you have one that is foam-friendly. Thirty-minute epoxy and life-ply internal patches work well to fix broken parts.

When it's time to patch your fighter, consider the materials it's made of. All but the most severe damage can be repaired, and your fighter will five to fly another day.

Tail-dragger checkout. Use right rudder!

Most fighters are tail-draggers with a conventional main gear and a steerable tailwheel. It's a good idea to get some stick time with a tail-dragger before you attempt to fly a warbird. This is especially true if you want to build and fly one that is equipped with retracts. You need to know something about the following:

Engine torque. This is the enemy of every tail-dragger; it tries to swing the aircraft to the left when you apply throttle for takeoff. As the prop spins clockwise (as viewed from the cockpit), torque tries to rotate (roll) the fuselage counterclockwise. This increases the load on the left main landing gear and decreases it on the right. Right rudder is required to prevent the model from rotating to the left. Torque is easier to deal with if you advance the throttle gradually and smoothly, and its effects disappear once the airplane is in the air.

Gyroscopic progression. This force tries to make the airplane swerve to the left when the tail rises during the takeoff roll. At the start of the takeoff run, the thrust force is basically the same throughout the propdisk area. When the tail comes up, the top of the prop moves forward. Because the prop spins clockwise, the forward force at the top of it is transferred 90 degrees to the right. This right-side push on the prop forces the model's nose to the left. Again, right rudder is needed to correct the heading. P-factor. This force attempts to veer the airplane to the left after takeoff. "P-factor" refers to the asymmetrical (unbalanced) thrust produced by the prop while the airplane is at a high angle of attack. The thrust imbalance is produced because, in the climb attitude, the prop's pitch relative to the airflow is higher on the right side as one tip travels downward than it is on the left side as the other tip travels upward. Hold a little right rudder during the climb-out to maintain a straight heading, Once the model has leveled out and is no longer climbing, P-factor is no longer a concern.

It's more important to know what to expect and what to do than to over-analyze the causes. In all the cases just described, just use right rudder to correct heading.

Center of gravity (CG). Keeping a tail-dragger on a straight course during takeoff and landing is very important because its CG is behind the main gear. This means that the tail-dragger is less stable than a tricycle-gear plane in which the CG is in front of the main gear. If you let the tail drift too far left or right, the model might ground-loop, and this will increase the side loads on the main gear. If you have retracts, they might fold, and you could damage your model or break the prop. Maintain rudder control until the model stops rolling.

Taming a tail-dragger is not really all that difficult to do. As always, all it takes is practice and an understanding of the forces involved.

Get in on the action

If you want a little more adventure than is available at your local warbird fun fly, turn up the heat up a notch by entering a fun-scale competition. Several such events are held every year, and they're the perfect places to start. More flying events than scale ones, the static portion is very simple: you have only to show some kind of documentation to earn the 5 points available. This may be a 3-view drawing, a picture cut out of a magazine, or even a handdrawn picture. If you provide the documentation, you earn the full 5 points. Without it, you'll still be allowed to fly, but you'll lose 5 easy points!

From here, the event is the same as other scale meets. You specify your maneuvers on the flight-score sheet (some are mandatory) and are then judged as you fly them. Your static score and your average flight score are combined to determine your overall standing. The atmosphere is comparatively relaxed and less hectic than at a regular AMA scale meet.

Who knows? You might discover that you really enjoy scale flying. Then you can build a more detailed warbird and go after the big guns (well, after a while!).

Toolbox do's and don'ts

Before you become a world-famous RC

warbird pilot, you have to assemble your fighter. Though these kits are almost ready to fly, a certain amount of assembly and setup work is left to you. Here are a few tips to help you get to the airfield in short order. Remember the basics, and you'll be successful!

Do read all the directions before you begin to glue parts together. They usually have to be joined in a specific order if the kit is to go together properly.

Don't use 5-minute epoxy. It may be good for fast field repairs, but it doesn't give you enough time to correctly align parts before it cures. Use 30-minute epoxy; it will allow you to correct your mistakes before it's too late.

Do have all required equipment and hardware on hand before you begin to build: engine, fuel systern (if not included with the kit), radio gear and retracts (if called for). You might have to install some hardware before you can go to the following step, and having all the necessary items ready will save you time.

Don't rush; take your time, and if you can't figure something out, ask an experienced builder for help. It's easier to do it right the first time than to correct a mistake later on.

Do use the correct tools. Use the proper screwdriver for the job. If you have to tighten a nut, use a wrench of the correct size-not pliers that can slip and damage the part. Use sharp hobby knives (always dispose of dull blades safely).

Don't forget that this is supposed to be fun! If you get frustrated, stop what you're doing and take a break! Get a cup of Joe or head for the USO club and relax awhile. Don't take shortcuts when building any airplane.

Do find a wingman! It's always more fun to fly with a friend. Remember that the best part of being an RC fighter pilot is chatting with the other pilots about how well you can fly your warbird.

World Miniature Warbird Association

So you have a brand-new, shoot-'em-up warbird and you're tired of dogfighting with all the local Ugly Stiks and other slow-moving targets. What are you to do? Well, you can go to an all-warbird fly-in and check out what the other military-minded modelers are up to. Attending such events is a great way to make friends and further enjoy your warbird.

The World Miniature Warbird Association (WMWA) is dedicated to building and flying RC models of the world's combat and defense aircraft. There isn't any size restriction, and all military aircraft models are welcome.

Each year, the WMWA holds the Scale Warbird Classic Fly for its members. This year, they met at Crosswind Acres Airport, Drums, PA. The organization has about 60 wings across the U.S. and abroad. To find out whether there's a wing near you, check out the WMWA site at www.aero-sports.com/warbirds, or contact Dino DiGiorgio, P.O. Box 175, Succasunna, NJ 07876; (973) 584-6096; DinoD999@aol.com.

Let's go racing

Warbirds can be used for racing, too. The Scale Warbird Racing Association (SWRA)-an AMA group-is dedicated to those who enjoy the competition of unlimited "Reno" racers. its members are interested in developing and improving scale warbird racing. The group organizes pylon racing for sport-scale RC models of reciprocating-engine military and unlimited racing aircraft.

SW RA racecourses are designed to be suitable for most RC fields; the models fly counterclockwise around two pylons in front of the pilots and parallel with the runway. A variety of classes allows newcomers and experts to compete at their particular level of skill.

Basic rules

Eligible aircraft: scale models of heavier-than-air, military fixedwing, piloted aircraft that were in production after January 1, 1937, and non-military aircraft that have raced in the Unlimited class at the Reno or Mojave Air Races.

Minimum displacements

-single-engine aircraft: 30ci for 2-strokes; :40ci for 4-strokes.

-multi-engine aircraft: minimum combined displacements: .50 (2-stroke); .80 (4-stroke).

Maximum displacements

--single-engine: 1.20 (2-stroke); 2.40 (4-stroke).

-combined multi-engine displacements: 1.80 (2-strokes); 3.60 (4-strokes),

Maximum engine size is determined by an engine-size/wing-area formula that shows the minimum wing area allowed for engines of specific sizes.

Documentation: required to prove the model's fidelity to scale; must include one sheet for "Outline" and one for "Color, Finish and Markings." A maximum of 100 static points may be earned in three categories: accuracy of outline (40 points), color, finish and markings (30) and craftsmanship (30).

Racing heats consist of 10 laps, and the winners of each heat earn the same number of points as there are airplanes in the heat. In a four-plane heat, first place earns 4 points, second earns 3, and so on.

Pilots' flight points are totaled and then multiplied by an appropriate overall standings multiplier to determine their racing scores. These are then added to their static scores to arrive at the totals.

For more information on the Scale Warbird Racing Association, write to SWRA, P.O. Box 5622, Mesa, AZ 85211-5622.

Aircraft Markings

Ever since WW I, military pilots have taken artistic liberties by personalizing their fighters: colorful nose art, family crests, the pilot's nickname and the names of loved ones have all brightened these rather drab machines. The desire to personalize the things we value most seems to be a facet of our natures.

With very little effort, you, too, can make your ARF fighter distinctively yours by adding commercially available vinyl graphics. Several companies produce there-both water-slide and stick-on-and the variety of markings seems endless. Add a name with the rub-on letters you'll find in office-supply stores or you can have graphics custom-made. You'll find everything from very simple panel lines and rivets to entire aircraft packages displaying the insignia of any nationality you want; there is something for everyone.

Decal sources

Aero FX, Rte. 1, Box 225, Stratford, OK 74872; (405) 759-3333; www.aerotx.com.

Aeroloft Design, 130 W. Hampton, Ste. 20, Mesa, AZ 85210; (602) 649-8662; www.aeroloft.com.

CFC Graphics, 41 Blackmore St., East Greenwich, RI 02818; (401) 885-8002; www.cfcgraphics.com.

Kirby Kustom Graphics, 903 Settlemire Rd., Lebanon, OH 45036; (513) 932-2422; fax (513) 932-2422; www.angelfire.corn/ohz/kirbysgraphics.

Major Decals/Northeast Screen Graphics, P.O. Box 304, East Longmeadow, MA 01028; (800) 557-5617; (413) 525-4110; www.majordecals.com.

Model Graphics, 312 Martin Oaks, Lafayette, LA 70501; (337) 269-5177; www.model-graphics.com.

Pro-Mark, 751 Airport Rd., Metropolis, IL 62960; (618) 524-2440; fax (618) 524-3617; www.pro-mark.com.

Sig Mfg. Co. Inc., P.O. Box 520, Montezuma, IA 50171; (800) 247-5008; (515) 623-5154; fax (515) 623-3922; www.sigmfg.com.

Copyright Air Age Publishing Sep 2001
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