around Ole Miss

208

Alumni of Ole Miss will immediately know where this restaurant sits if you tell them it occupies the former home of Smitty's. The building now hosts a very different restaurant altogether, one that certainly is more spare and elegant. Don't begrudge the new place: It has a great bar and a worthwhile dinner menu. Start with the tempura shrimp, served with a tart soy-lime dipping sauce and avocado salsa ($9). Then proceed directly to the wasabi-pea-crusted tuna. Though I ordered mine medium rare, and it came out well done, the quality of the tuna was first-rate and a relative bargain at $21. Its spicy crust was a nice twist too. 208 South LamarBlvd; (662)234-0005. Entrées: $10-$27.50. -MORGAN MURPHY

LOCAL FAVORITE

Ajax Diner has all the college hangout clichés: toothpicks in the ceiling, a bar made of old license plates, and the distinct odor of spilled beer. Yet Ajax brings some surprises to Oxford's dining scene. If you go on Friday, you'll be treated to a special called Chicken Enchilada Casserole. Spicy, juicy chicken and fabulous peppers wrapped in tender flour tortillas are well worth $7.95. Plus, you get two veggies and jalapeno cornbread. Gluttonous locals order The Deuce-a giant, juicy 3Apound hamburger made with Black Angus beef ($9). Wear a bib: This burger will leave you covered after only a few bites. Get there before noon if you want a seat. 718 Courthouse Square; (662)232-8880. Entrées: $8-$21.

L&M'S KITCHEN AND SALUMERIA

If you're a meat lover or appreciate authentic Italian cuisine, detour to L&M. Saffron-colored walls and an open grill give the restaurant a distinctly European feel. A large, glass-enclosed salumeria (a showcase displaying salt-cured meats) greets diners. Begin your meal by ordering the L&M Salumi Plate, a gorgeous platter of picholine olives; milky but dry grana padano (cheese); and insanely decadent, house-cured coppa, (pork), soppressata (fennel-crusted salami), and prosciutto. It's a bargain at $12. Don't miss out on the rigatoni ($9), with spicy Italian sausage and sweet peppers. End with a cappuccino ($3.50) and dense, rich chocolate gelato ($6.50). 309 C North Lamar Blvd.; (662) 238-7780. Entrees: $18-$26.50.

YOCONA RIVER INN

Bounce down State 334 about 9 miles east of Oxford, and you'll come upon an old general store. Here, in the midst of car-chasing dogs and weathered pickup trucks, sits the Yocona River Inn. Order the filet. Grilled to perfection, it boasts a tasty crust and sits in the most delicious red wine sauce (which, incidentally, should be sopped up with the accompanying mashed potatoes). Finish with their fabulously decadent cookie dough cheesecake. 842 State 334; (662) 234-2464. Entrees: $10.95-$26.50.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation May 2006
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved