Bama's Best Barbecue

We ate at barbecue stands all over the state and found five favorites. Stop in for a meal you're sure to love.

Many Southerners brag that the word "barbeque," in the South, is a noun. A hamburger cooked on a backyard grill isn't a "BBQ," it's a "cookout." hot dog behind the motor home? Again, not "bar-b-que." That's a "tailgate." We all agree on those points.

What we don't see snout to snout about is the spelling of "barbecue" and what makes the best. Texans love brisket. Kansas City devotees devour thicker, sweet sauce. Many North Carolinians put slaw on the sandwich. Some Tennessee folk like a dry rub. And Alabama? Alabama is where Southeast meets Southwest. To get a true picture of the state's barbecue, you have to try at least five spots. May we suggest the following.

1. Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q, Decatur. Arguably the best barbecue in the state, perhaps the South, maybe the world. Try the giant Bar-B-Q Potatoes. A Pork Potato (S5.79), covered in tender pork, is large enough to feed two and should be thoroughly doused with Big Bob's white sauce (a famous concoction unique to Alabama). 1715 Sixth Avenue SE.; (256) 350-6969.

2. Dreamland, Tuscaloosa. Don't expect ambience. Don't look for fries, sandwiches, pies, or beans. Go to Dreamland for the sauce. You could eat it by itself, sopped up with their plain white bread slices, or with a slab of ribs (S 19.39). One shocking news flash for longtime fans: Dreamland now serves banana pudding. 5535 15th Avenue East: (205) 758-8135.

3. Johnny Ray's, Birmingham. You'll want to visit the original Valley Avenue location, where police have to be called in to direct lunchtime traffic. Yes, it's missing a few ceiling panels, and you'll have to holler to be heard if they happen to be chopping meat. But the chopped pork sandwich ($2.9943.99) is a classic, and the sauce is just right. Don't miss their Wedding Band Onion Rings and Honey's world-class pies. 316 Valley Avenue; (205) 945-7437.

4. Green's Bar-B-Q Pit, Gantt. Next to the power plant and dam on Gantt Lake, Green's is a South Alabama institution. Go for this killer combo: a barbecue pork sandwich ($2.95), french fries, fried pickles, fried okra, and fried apple pie (à la mode). You may not make it home, but trust us, it's worth a mild coronary. U.S. 29 North; (334) 388-2550.

5. Richey's BBQ, Harpersville. If you're tooling east on U.S. 280. make a left onto U.S. 231/State 25 once you enter Harpersville. Peter Gerontakis's restaurant makes a mean slab of ribs (S 15.99) and pork sandwiches ($2.79) tasty enough to eat without sauce. Okay, we'll admit it, they also make a fabulous sloppy cheeseburger for $2.39. Get it with all the fixin's. 39622 State 25; (205) 672-7220.

MORGAN MURPHY

MARKS OF GREAT 'CUE

We asked Southern Living Assistant Garden Design Editor Troy Black-who has won several barbecue championships-what to look for in a great barbecue restaurant. Here are his top tips.

* There must be a pile of wood out back. This ensures you'll get a true smoky flavor.

* The parking lot must be full-great barbecue is worth the wait.

* The outer portions of the pork-the crust, or "bark"-should be a deep mahogany color. Beyond that, chunks should have a pinkish inner ring, called a "smoke ring."

* A lot of mediocre barbecue is covered up by great sauce. Meat should stand on its own and be complemented by the sauce.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Nov 2005
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