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hot spot on the harbor

Southern Living, Jul 2005 by Vanhooser, Cassandra M

There's a reason they call Baltimore Charm City. You'll love this quirky waterfront town for its great food, fun attractions, and friendly personality.

Feisty lead character Tracy Turnblad belts out a rousing tribute to her hometown in the Broadway musical Hairspray. "I love you, Baltimore," she sings with abandon. "Every day's like an open door. Every night is a fantasy. Every sound's like a symphony."

I find myself humming these words every time I visit this delightful port city. It's quirky and eclectic, yet it's still a great place to bring a family. History and character wait around every corner. What's more, the city's sights and sounds get a firm hold on your soul-from the Domino Sugar sign shimmering in the Inner Harbor to the singing of the National Anthem at Camden Yards.

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"Baltimore is very laid-back, very forgiving," says Molly Foyle, a recent transplant from Washington, D.C. "It's like this city gets excited about eccentricity."

One of the most delightful quirks is the Baltimore accent, a tongue-twisting vernacular with blue-collar roots. "You haven't lived until you've heard a Baltimore 'O'!" says National Public Radio host Lisa Simeone.

For years, Baltimore languished in the shadows of flashier neighbors such as D.C., Philadelphia, and New York. But no more. Newcomers pouring into the city are now discovering what Baltimoreans have known all along-this is a great place to live, work, and play.

"Baltimore is a very friendly town, rich in history and unique, historic neighborhoods," says Mayor Martin O'Malley, one of the city's biggest cheerleaders. "It's a large city with small-town charm. The people who call Baltimore home take pride in their city, and we are proud to share our heritage with visitors."

Explore the Inner Harbor

Because Baltimore is a large, diverse city, it can be a bit intimidating for first-time visitors. That's why the Inner Harbor makes such a great place to start. Many of the city's most visited attractions hug the waterfront, making them easily accessible.

The National Aquarium, located at Pier 3, deserves a spot at the top of the list. Here visitors come face-to-face with sharks and travel through an Amazon River Forest, but the dolphin show remains the highlight. The aquarium gets extremely busy in the summertime. To minimize your wait, buy tickets at www.aqua.org, and schedule your visit for early morning or late afternoon.

Next to your own feet, Ed Kane's Water Taxi ranks among the best-and cheapest-ways to get around. What's more, the slow-moving boats also offer a wonderful view of the city. Drivers make stops throughout the Inner Harbor, as well as Fell's Point, Canton, and Fort McHenry. An all-day ticket costs $8 adults, $4 ages 10 and under.

Power Plant Live!, just two blocks north of the Inner Harbor, caters to those who love the nightlife. This Baltimore hot spot features seven restaurants and nine bars, all clustered around a large open plaza. (The outdoor dining at Babalu Grill gets our vote for hot summer fun.) When the weather's nice, bands play for free. An enthusiastic party crowd converges on the bars after the dinner hour, so come early if you're bringing the kids.

To Crack a Crab

Ask any Baltimorean what you should do when you come to town, and invariably, they'll direct you to a crab feast. "You must eat at one of our crab houses, sit at a butcher paper-covered table, and slam your wooden mallet down onto a succulent Maryland blue crab," recommends Lisa Simeone. "There's simply nothing like it."

Many locals favor Bo Brooks Crab House, a no-frills restaurant near the water taxi stop in Canton. Request a table on the covered porch so you can watch the boats come and go while you wait for your food.

If you prefer a crab cake, head to Faidley's Seafood at Lexington Market. This landmark offers no seating, only chest-high tables. For a more comfortable dining experience, try Gertrude's at the Baltimore Museum of Art. Chef John Shields offers three different crab cakes every day.

The Boys of Summer

Even if you're not a huge baseball fan, you'll enjoy a day at Oriole Park at Camden Yards. The redbrick, retro-style ballpark features a double-decker bull pen in left-center field, as well as a wonderful view of Baltimore's landmark Bromo-Seltzer Tower. The 85-acre site also includes the old Baltimore & Ohio Warehouse, which now houses a cafeteria, sports bar, and gift shop.

"When you compare it to Yankee Stadium...well, there's really no comparison," longtime Yankees fan Eileen Alleborn reluctantly admits. She came to Baltimore with her husband, Jeff, and their two boys, Brandon and Nicholas, to see the Bronx Bombers take on the Orioles. "I'm glad our 4-year-old Brandon got to see his first Major League Baseball game here."

Red, White, and Baltimore

Most people know that Francis Scott Key penned "The Star-Spangled Banner" when he saw the American flag flying after a night of furious fighting during the War of 1812. But they may not remember that those very Stars and Stripes were flying over Baltimore's Fort McHenry. Visitors can explore the fort, now a National Monument and Historic Shrine, as well as the soldiers' barracks and surrounding Whetstone Point. The Flag House & Star-Spangled Banner Museum is also open for tours.

hot spot on the harbor

Southern Living, Jul 2005 by Vanhooser, Cassandra M

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