Hoppin' John

This timeless, good-luck combination of rice and peas is a New Year's Day must-have.

In our search for the definitive Hoppin' John recipe, we discovered lots of differences. Black-eyed peas (also known as cowpeas) are just one kind of dried peas popping up in recipes (others include regional darlings such as crowder, pink-eyed, lady, and good ol' field peas). Some recipes call for cooking the rice and peas together, while others suggest spooning the peas over a mound of hot rice. Some folks prefer a creamier, stewlike consistency over drier versions. But regardless of whether the cook uses salt pork, a ham hock, or bacon, pork is the primary flavoring agent.

Hoppin' John is one of those Southern culinary icons that seem so simple, yet upon closer inspection bloom with layers of history, lore, and tradition. The hearty combination first emerged on Lowcountry rice plantations. Abundant Carolina Gold rice and field peas re-created the rice-and-pigeon pea combination familiar to West African slaves, who were hungry for the comforting flavors of their homeland. Good food travels fast, and soon this stick-to-your-ribs specialty made its way out of the fields and into kitchens throughout the South.

As for lore, well, there are as many stories regarding the origin of the name Hoppin' John as there are tributaries flowing into the Mississippi. One of the more popular theories suggests it's a Southernization of pois à pigeon (pwah ah pee-ZHAN), which is French for pigeon pea.

Tradition holds that when eaten on New Year's Day, Hoppin' John brings good luck. The rice signifies abundance for the coming year, while peas-specifically black-eyed peas-are thought to bring wealth in the form of coins. (Collard greens, a classic Hoppin' John partner, represent dollar bills. For a top-rated recipe, check out Uptown Collards on page 124.) Pork also plays an important role in the dish, and it's for more than just flavor. Hogs can't look back, so pork represents the future.

After testing a wide range of recipes and experiencing several days of lively discussions around our tasting table, we settled on a recipe that originally appeared in Civil War Cooking: The Confederacy (Capstone Press, $22.60). This recipe gives you an authentic and soul-soothing taste of Hoppin' John in all of its delicious glory. SCOTT JONES

HOPPIN' JOHN

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

SOAK: 8 HRS., PREP: 10 MIN., COOK: 2 HRS., STAND: 10 MIN.

1 cup (8 ounces) dried black-eyed peas

10 cups water, divided

3 bacon slices

1 small onion, chopped

1 green bell pepper, chopped

1 cup uncooked long-grain rice

1 ½ teaspoons salt

Garnishes: green onion pieces, tomato wedges

PLACE peas in a Dutch oven or large saucepan. Add water to cover 2 inches above peas; let soak 8 hours. Drain peas, discarding water.

BRING peas and 7 cups water to a boil over medium-high heat in Dutch oven. Reduce heat to medium, and simmer, uncovered, 1 ½ hours or until peas are tender.

COOK bacon in a large skillet 5 minutes or until crisp; remove bacon, and drain on paper towels, reserving drippings in skillet. Crumble bacon.

SAUTÉ onion and bell pepper in hot drippings in skillet over medium heat 5 minutes or until tender. Add vegetable mixture, remaining 3 cups water, rice, and salt to peas. Cook, covered, over medium heat 20 minutes or until rice is tender. Remove from heat, and let stand, covered, 10 minutes before serving. Sprinkle with crumbled bacon. Garnish, if desired.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Jan 2005
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