SOUTH'S BEST Fried Chicken, THE

Then there are the waffles. Made from a malted batter, their sweetness blends harmoniously with the savory chicken. "Food should be a party in your mouth," says executive chef Reginald Washington. "A blending of sugar and salt really brings out the rich flavor in our food. That's why the combination has been so successful."

Reginald didn't invent the chicken-and-waffle craze, but the Alabama-born chef added his own twist to the trend, serving up what he calls Nuevo Soul Food. "It's a little lighter, but with a different flair to it," he explains.

As you might expect, the restaurant looks more like a chic lounge than a chicken joint. The walls boast rich, warm paneling adorned with music memorabilia and celebrity photographs of Gladys Knight, Ron Winans, and friends. Caramel-colored leather covers the comfortable booths and chairs. The restaurant stays open late on weekends to serve entertainers and other night owls. 529 Peachtree Street NE., Atlanta; (404) 874-9393. Three-piece dinner: $11.50.

Price's Chicken Coop, Charlotte

There's nothing fancy about this restaurant. In fact, there's not even a place to sit down and enjoy your meal, but we sure got lots of letters singing the praises of Price's. One reader even went so far as to visit www.mapquest.com and print out directions for us to follow.

Still, I was skeptical. The lunch counter occupies a simple redbrick building in the shadow of downtown Charlotte. I arrive at three o'clock in the afternoon only to find a line trailing out the door. At lunchtime, it is not unusual for the line to stretch around the block.

Once inside, I realize that this is no feel-good, what-can-I-get-you-honey kind of establishment. The white cinder block walls are unadorned. A hand-lettered menu hangs above a long white counter where a half-dozen cashiers buzz around taking and filling orders. Behind them, white-jacketed fry cooks stand over bubbling vats of hot oil, cooking chicken as fast as they can.

Maybe it's the anticipation that makes it taste so good, but it's all I can do to make it to the parking lot before ripping into the flat white box. All around me, others sit in their cars, radios and air conditioners blasting, delving into their own boxes filled with tater rounds, mayonnaise-based slaw, feather-light hush puppies, and scorch-your-fingers hot chicken.

Price's opened in 1962 to cater to blue-collar workers in the area who had only 30 minutes for lunch. Little has changed, except now it's as popular with downtown businesspeople as it is with construction and factory workers. 1614 Camden Road, Charlotte; (704) 333-9866. Half-chicken dinner: $6.10.

Kessler's 1891 Eatery and Pub, Versailles, Kentucky

I expected to find dozens of mom-and-pop joints in out-of-the-way places that would vie for the title of best in the South. Not so. Most have gone the way of country stores and full-service gas stations.

But this tiny Kentucky town, right in the heart of horse country, claims such a treasure. The chicken dinner comes with a small salad, lackluster green beans, and a baked potato or fries. Locals know to substitute the homemade coleslaw or potato salad. Still, the chicken is golden brown, lightly seasoned, and oh-so juicy. Every order comes out steaming hot and cooked to order.