Central Texas

Central Texas In the Fast Lane

Road food is a necessity. Good road food, however, is not the easiest thing to find. But next time you're on 1-35 in the Lone Star State, make the trip more enjoyable for everyone by trying one of these fully satisfying pit stops.

I started in Austin, with an outstanding breakfast at Las Manilas Avenue Cafe, run by Cynthia and Lidia Ferez. The Perez sisters began by selling authentic Mexican tacos from a cart in 1979 (across from UT Austin) as well as delivering them all around town. Now they have their own building space in the heart of the city. Begin with a glass of fresh-squeezed watermelon or cantaloupe juice while trying to decide between the Chilaquiles Rojos or Chilaquiles Verdes (crispy corn tortilla strips with cheese and red or green sauce) or one of the daily specials. I had enchiladas in an earthy, rich Mexican chocolate mole. Even the sides-the creamiest retried beans and warm, fragrant tortillas-are worth saving room for. There's a lot of shuffling of chairs and tables to accommodate all the eager diners, so don't linger too long over the choices-you can't go wrong. 211 Congress Avenue, Austin; (512) 472-9357, Breakfast: $3-$6; lunch: $4-$8.

Next time you hit the road along I-35 in Texas, try one of these refreshing alternatives to chain food.

Clem Mikeska's Bar-B-Q

If you're near Temple and you feel that familiar Southern urge for barbecue, stop in at Clem Mikeska's. (If you're in a real hurry, there's also a drive-through.)

As opposed to most Texas barbecue, which is brisket, Clem grills a sirloin cut of beef. Prize-winning homemade sausage (with just a hint of pepper and garlic) and dry-rubbed ribs served with homemade breads and sauces are enough to keep the whole family in a peaceful food coma as you drive to your desired destination. 1217 South 57th Street, Temple; (254) 778-5481. Sandwiches: $2.20-$3.50; plates: $5.50-$6.95.

Doyle Phillips Steakhouse

From the interstate near Temple you can see the huge sign announcing this conveniently located roadside steak house, which has been family operated since 1958. If it's Thursday, stop in for the famous chicken and dumplings ($5.25). Otherwise, try the hand-shaped chicken-fried steak served hot and crisp with white country gravy. The 8-ounce New York strip is also a bargain ($9.95). All main courses are served with a house salad, two fresh vegetables, rolls, cornbread, and cobbler. The service is sweet and Southern, which, along with the straightforward home cooking, makes for a pleasant roadside stop. 4011 South General Bruce Drive, Temple; (254) 778-9951. Lunch entrees: $5.50-$8.95; dinner entrees: $9.95-$27.95.

The Range at the Barton House

In Salado, after you stop at the Wildfire Ranch Arena for a look at the rodeo sports, drive another mile to the main street of this quaint town. For a relaxing and more elegant lunch on the weekend or for dinner Wednesday through Sunday, splurge at The Range at the Barton House. Owners Dave and Katie Hermann (both trained at The Culinary Institute of America) are a young couple whose regular customers drive I-35 from as far away as Austin. Nibble on a bowl of hot crispy house fries while Dave plates a perfectly tender roast quail with creamy polenta or grilled pork rib chop with an innovative watermelon salsa. The menu also offers a variety of homemade pizzas and salads. A warm volcano cake of Valrhona chocolate is worth spending a few lingering moments over before getting back on the road. 101 North Main Street, Salado; (254) 947-3828. Burgers: $8; entrees: $15.95-$32.95.

KIM SUNEE

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Mar 2004
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