Lazy days at The Swag

Savor the long days of summer at this stylish North Carolina mountain inn.

This season was meant to be spent at The Swag. The 15-room rustic inn sits pretty on a mountaintop, looking out over the Great Smoky Mountains. You won't find a better place to cool off from the heat than at this haven in the hills, some 30 miles west of Asheville, North Carolina.

"We originally planned to have our family home up here," recalls owner-innkeeper Deener Matthews. She purchased the property in 1969 with husband Dan, who is rector of Trinity Church Wall Street in New York City. "But in 1982, we opened it up as a lodging option for visitors to the World's Fair in Knoxville."

First, let's define the inn's name. Local folks call the ridge the inn sits on a "swag," because it dips between two peaks, like the swag of a horse's back. Second, let's get to the place. The 2 1/2-mile approach road winds up the mountains to an altitude of 5,000 feet. Rhododendron and mountain laurel nod hello from the deep green woods.

The air cools considerably-5 or so degrees for every 1,000 feet of elevation. Take a jacket or sweater when you go. Nights can get a bit chilly.

Think of the drive as a prelude to what awaits you once you get to the main lodge. Six hand-hewn log structures cluster around the hilltop and look more like a mountain settlement than a lodge. The inn's main living room was a century-old church moved here from Hancock County, Tennessee. So the warm, welcome feeling you get upon your arrival comforts you both physically and spiritually.

Near the reception desk sits a large basket filled with gnarly mountain laurel walking sticks. Look! Attached to one of them is a cookie-size wooden disk with your name penned on it. You'll get plenty of use out of the hiking stick: The Swag borders the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and several trails lead off into the cool and shady woods.

Rooms are generously sized and decorated to match the comfortable hunting-lodge look. One of our favorites is the Bishop's Room, named for the Bishop of Tennessee. A small, private balcony looks east over the mountains, and the morning sun washes the room in golden warmth. Speaking of warmth, a fireplace (found in all but four rooms) takes the chill out of the air.

Once you've settled in, slip down to the front porch and dogtrot, where you'll likely find other guests sitting out and enjoying the view. Grab a drink, take a deep breath, and relax. Although there's an official cocktail hour at 6 p.m., when hors d'oeuvres are spread out on a table on the dogtrot, there's usually a constant gathering of people out there.

The dinner bell rings at 7, calling all guests into the dining room. Executive chef Matthew Fray announces the evening's entrees: "For tonight I've prepared antelope medallions with a roasted beet chutney, portobello mushrooms, and candied carrots," he says, as the group pays rapt and ravenous attention. Take your meals either at your own table in the main room, or sit family style at two large tables. On some nights after dinner, The Hill Country Band plays bluegrass, folk, and gospel music in the main lodge.

Mornings serve up a buffet-style breakfast, and guests discuss their plans for the day. Special events, lectures, and activities are scheduled throughout the season.

Wednesdays bring a picnic lunch on Gooseberry Knob, where Matthew fires up the grill and serves up bison burgers, grilled chicken, and a fabulous assortment of side dishes, topped off with a great dessert, such as blackberry cobbler. Imagine sitting in an Adirondack chair, eating a grilled burger, and gazing out over the mountains. Talk about a cheeseburger in paradise: It's right here, served up at The Swag.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Jun 2003
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