Food finds: Asheville

Morning at its Best

Start with breakfast at Early Girl Eatery. They serve lunch and dinner, too, but I had to try a lazy Saturday morning feast. I skipped the tofu scramble. (You'll see a lot of tofu on menus in this town.) But the stack of buttermilk pancakes with double-cut bacon on the side wonderfully satisfied my a.m. appetite. The stone-ground grits they serve are milled nearby and come with a generous pat of butter. Biscuits arrive at the table with that soothing flavor of home-without you making the effort or mess in your own kitchen. John and Julie Stehling own this place, and John's brother runs the slightly similar Hominy Grill in Charleston, South Carolina-another favorite we've shared with you in the past. 8 Wall Street, (828) 259-9292. Breakfast and brunch entrees: $1.95-$7.25.

This North Carolina mountain town is artistic, eclectic, and-here and there undeniably Southern. So are the menus at its newer restaurants.

Asheville's inhabitants encompass the Bohemian, the cultured patrons of the visual and performing arts, and a wide variety of folks whose lives range from simple to sophisticated. Anyone can find a niche here, and that makes for fabulous dining experiences and diverse menus not often found in more urban settings.

Laurey's

At this lunch spot, owner Laurey Masterton and her staff offer hot soups, such as creamy chicken noodle; sandwiches, such as turkey on a croissant; and salads and side items from the deli case. I enjoyed a salad of extremely thin-sliced sweet potatoes roasted with onions then tossed in a dressing of honey, lemon juice, and olive oil. Don't miss the baked goods here, such as Chocolate Screams: dark chocolate cookies with chocolate chips, coconut, and caramel. 67 Biltmore Avenue; (828) 252-1500 or www.laureysyum.com. Lunch items: $2.50-$8.

Rezaz

You will be as hard-pressed to find a Southern ingredient on this innovative Mediterranean menu as you will to find an open table on a weekend night without a reservation. But an adventuresome palate won't mind.

This restaurant in Historic Biltmore Village was, for decades, a hardware store. The original hardwood floors are still here, but they've painted the walls in different colors and put in contemporary light fixtures and some industrial decor touches.

Flavors here are bold and daring. Start with a grilled sausage of lamb and currants with roasted-grape-andport-wine sauce. More mellow but still inventive is the wood-grilled Caesar salad: a small wedge of romaine laid on the grill for about 45 seconds, then served with grilled garlic bread, tangy dressing, and freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

For the main course, the osso bucco was far from the best I've had, but the grilled beef filet with cabrales cheese, Rioja demi-glace (Spanish wine), mushrooms, and truffle oil all set atop black pepper mashed potatoes impressed. End with lavender creme brulee or pistachio-cashew baklava with creme anglaise. 28 Hendersonville Road; (828) 277-1510. Entrees: $13-$19.

Tupelo Honey Cafe

This is a Sunday brunch must, but be ready to wait in line. The whole town apparently knows and loves this spot. Their Steak and Eggs include flavorful beef tenderloin and eggs the way you want them, while Eggs Crawley brings two crab cakes topped with poached eggs. Both include hollandaise sauce and asparagus, and the latter comes with wonderful creamy grits. 12 College Street; (828) 2554863 or www. tupelohoneycafe. com. Brunch entrees: $5-$11.

DANA ADKINS CAMPBELL

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Mar 2003
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