Food finds: Global favors in the heart of the south: Nashville

If you go to Nashville expecting mostly old-fashioned Southern fare, your taste buds are in for a wake-up call. Several places I tried were wildly creative (some too much), and most featured ethnic dishes and ingredients from around the world. Perhaps the most balanced hand in the kitchen showed itself at romantic Park Cafe, a series of cozy nooks and crannies.

I started with a taste of Louisiana: tender oysters and spicy bits of andouille sausage baked with white wine and breadcrumbs. One of the chefs is Japanese and, that evening, offered slivers of tender, rare beef fanned on a plate with minced daikon and scallion, sliced tomato halves, and a ponzu dipping sauce. Then on to Italy with seared scallops and gnocchi (dumplings, often made from potatoes) with garlic, asparagus, arugula, and smoked tomato sauce. I finished with a satisfying twist on France's classic creme brulee: layers of cold, sweet custard and crispy almond phyllo pastry atop a rich caramel sauce. Their unintimidating wine list offers surprises such as Joseph Phelps "Pastiche," a blend of a few white varietals. 4403 Murphy Road; (615) 383-4409. Entrees: $14.75-$19.50.

Pancake Pantry

A weekend away should include a big, lazy breakfast. Robert Baldwin began this morning-feast mecca in 1961, and then sold it to his son, David. There's a connection to the Pancake Pantry in Gatlinburg, Tennessee, which was opened long ago by Robert's best friend. David visits there often while making a "flour run" for his Nashville eatery. Though numerous variations beckon, I loved the old-fashioned buttermilk pancakes slathered with butter and drizzled with hot homemade syrup. Meat lovers should try the Tennessee country ham with eggs and pancakes. Beware: On weekends, you're gonna stand in line for a long time to get in. 1796 21st Avenue South; (615) 3839333. Breakfast plates: $4.35-$10.20.

Atlantis

As the name implies, this place showcases seafood, though meat lovers have options here too. The vibrant main dining room combines walls of deep blue and yellow with a red ceiling. Intriguing metal sculptures cradle candles, and artwork abounds. The best thing I ate here was a circle of fried oysters drizzled with red curry sauce, surrounding a dollop of warm bacon slaw. Fattening-but fabulous. Lobster-and-peeky toe crab cake was a bit bready but flavorful, with a lively horseradish remoulade. The main course paired seared grouper with a leg of duck confit atop a plate of wild mushrooms, fresh spinach, and lobster vinaigrette. The service and setting pampered, while too-bright-green Key lime cheesecake disappointed. 1911 Broadway (615) 327-8001. Entrees: $19-$26.

Margot Cafe & Bar

This funky but refined restaurant lies out of the way in East Nashville, across the Cumberland River. It's worth the detour, as evidenced by the crowd of locals on weekend nights. Make a reservation, and ask for a table upstairs where there's a bit more ambience. Big appetites will love the grilled lamb loin chops with a generous polenta cake (crispy outside, gooey and moist inside) atop spinach and chopped artichokes bathed in butter. To finish, try the seriously rich chocolate-hazelnut ice cream or an apricot-almond tart. 1017 Woodland Street; (615) 227-4668. Entrees: $13-$19. DANA ADKINS CAMPBELL

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Dec 2002
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