Food finds: Savor unexpected flavors: Birmingham

Bonjour, y'all-a taste of France in our Deep South.

Rue de Provence Patisserie Et Bistro

I love the way they put "patisserie" first; I mostly look forward to perusing the pastry case and choosing dessert. Generally a lunch spot (open for dinner Thursday through Saturday only-- which I haven't tried and is much more expensive), this is a cheerful space with a high ceiling and colorful murals that make you feel like you're dining in a sunny French street scene. Lunch on salade nicoise, generous with fresh bluefin tuna, or much heavier fare such as a puff pastry overflowing with bechamel sauce, ham, chicken, mushrooms, and green olives alongside a creamily dressed romaine salad. Finish with a chocolate or lemon tart and a cup of rich coffee. 2838 Culver Road, Mountain Brook Village, (205) 8704904. Lunch entrees: $7.95-$9.50.

Chez Lulu

This funky, cozy cafe is brightly painted inside and filled with kitschy items such as old-fashioned Christmas lights and zany lamps. You have to smile, even before you taste the food. Wine is inexpensive and served in juice glasses.

There's no pretense here. Bread comes from the popular Continental Bakery next door, and of the appetizer spreads, the olive tapenade is the best. On a cool fall evening, warm up with La Doba a la Nissarda (Daube A la Nicoise-tender beef that's been long simmered with vegetables and red wine) and served with wild mushrooms as well as toasted bread for sopping. Desserts-such as thin, crisp pear-almond tart and a rich tart of swirled Belgian chocolates-- also come from the bakery. 1911 Cahaba Road, English Village; (205) 870-7011: Dinner entrees: $6.95$12.95. DANA ADKINS CAMPBELL

one more to try

Daniel George isn't truly a French restaurant, but it does offer several French appetizers worth your while. Chicken Confit Timbale has a base of grilled bread and a cylinder of chicken confit-all topped with a "son-in-law egg" (a deep-fried egg that's crispy outside and runny inside). Coarse-grained mustard and tangy cornichons accompany. The steamed mussels here-- done in a white wine and basil broth--outshine those at Chez Fonfon, if you can do without the pommes frites. And a zippy remoulade sauce graces a generous ring of fried oysters with shaved cucumber and oven-dried tomato salad in the center. Dessert brings a smile as well. 2837 Culver Road, Mountain Brook Village; (205) 871-3266. Dinner entrees: $19-$25.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Nov 2002
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