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Perfect po'boy

Southern Living,  Aug 2002  by Hurst, Andria Scott,  Dreiling, Beth

Don't be fooled by the name-- there's nothing poor about these Southern sandwiches.

The first po'boy sandwich I ever had was the best I've ever had. The warm bread was crusty outside and soft inside. The contrast of cold, crunchy lettuce; mounds of perfectly seasoned fried shrimp; and zesty remoulade sauce was a peak dining experience.

This New Orleans institution, which is also a favorite at seafood restaurants along the Gulf Coast, is rich with history and some of the best flavors of the region. It's a loaf of warm, fresh French bread piled high with fried shrimp, roast beef, plump fried oysters, or a variety of other savory fillings.

A 1929 New Orleans streetcar strike inspired the owners of Martin Brothers restaurant to start making these sandwiches for the struggling workers, or "poor boys." They stuffed a whole meal into a loaf, wrapped it in butcher paper, and sold it for a nickel. Some say the restaurant made as many as 1,000 sandwiches a day.

In no time, po'boys were in demand everywhere. In some parts of the city, the fried-oyster versions became known as "peacemakers," as many a carousing husband brought them home to soothe an angry wife.

Just the mention of po'boys sparked fond taste memories of the Crescent City among the Southern Living staff. "Domilise's Po-Boy & Bar has the best gravy on their roast beef," says Assistant Foods Editor Alison Lewis. "Mother's has incredible oyster po'boys," reports Copy Chief Dawn Cannon. "The oysters are fat, plentiful, and fried to perfection, served on French bread with just the right amount of coleslaw to top it off. They also have a po'boy called the Ferdi Special that's made from roast beef, ham, and debris [pieces of meat that fall off the roast as it cooks]," she says.

"I went through college eating these," recalls Photographer Beth Dreiling. Her Shrimp Po'boys (see photo at left) earned acclaim in our Test Kitchens. We invite you to take a bite.

DRESSED OYSTER PO'BOYS

COMBINE cornmeal and Creole seasoning; dredge oysters in mixture. POUR oil to a depth of 2 inches into a Dutch oven; heat to 375 deg. Fry oysters, in 3 batches, 2 to 3 minutes or until golden. Drain on wire racks.

STIR together 1/2 cup mayonnaise, vinegar, and mustard. Stir in cabbage; set slaw aside.

STIR together remaining 1/2 cup mayonnaise, ketchup, and next 3 ingredients.

SPREAD cut sides of rolls with mayonnaise mixture. Place oysters and slaw evenly on bottom halves of rolls; cover with roll tops.

Prep: 30 min., Fry: 3 min. per batch

SHRIMP PO'BOYS

PEEL shrimp, and devein, if desired.

COMBINE flour, salt, and pepper. Stir together milk and egg until smooth. Toss shrimp in milk mixture; dredge in flour mixture.

POUR oil to a depth of 2 inches in a Dutch oven; heat to 375 deg . Fry shrimp, in batches, 1 to 2 minutes or until golden; drain on wire racks.

MELT butter; add garlic. Spread cut sides of rolls evenly with butter mixture; place on a large baking sheet.

BAKE at 450 deg for 8 minutes. Spread cut sides of rolls evenly with Remoulade Sauce. Place shrimp and lettuce on bottom halves of rolls; cover with roll tops.

Prep: 32 min., Fry: 2 min. per batch,

Bake: 8 min.

Remoulade Sauce:

STIR together all ingredients; cover and chill until ready to serve.

Prep: 5 min. BETH DREILING

BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA

PO'BOY POLL

Our staff has some definite opinions about the South's best po'boy restaurants, but we know you have some favorites as well. Write to Foods Editor, Southern Living, P.O. Box 523, Birmingham, AL 35201, and tell us about them.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Aug 2002
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