Food finds

Best Bite

Durham and Chapel Hill

You may think of Chapel Hill and Durham as quiet college towns, but you'll find big-city flavors in each. In the past, we've led you to stellar Magnolia Grill and Nana's; this time, try a few younger spots that raise urban eyebrows in admiration.

Make your first reservation at Four Square, a 1908 home with a very fresh edge. Chef Shane Ingram takes his plates to the brink of wild adventure, juggling unlikely flavors into beautiful balance. The gratis first nibble so common in Atlanta or Dallas appeared here as an escargot fritter with aioli. I then chose delicate sliced smoked duck breast on a salad of red cabbage and papaya, nestled in a crisp tuile basket, both sweet and hot with ginger. On the calmer-but not duller-side, black sea bass with chunky, truffled mashed potatoes and braised fresh artichokes sat on a softgreen sauce that tasted like spring.

As one tempted by a cheese course but always opting for sweets, I loved having both in the impressive blue cheese-stuffed poached pear. After stints in the kitchens of Emeril's Restaurant, Charlie Trotter's, and The Inn at Little Washington, Shane and his wife settied in Durham to open this, their own restaurant, in 1999. Carolina is lucky. 2701 Chapel Hill Road, Durham; (919) 401-9877. Entrees: $17.50-$29.

Come taste the culinary delights in these North Carolina college towns.

Lantern

This Asian spot on Chapel Hill's fun, funky Franklin Street opened just nine days before I popped in-way too early to judge a new restaurant. But I was stunned at how wonderful it already was. Co-chef/co-owner Andrea Reusing and her staff are a young and progressive bunch; the interior decor is trendy and spare; the mood, chic but comfortable; and the food, great and affordable. Appetizers run $4 to $9; entrees, $13 to $17. I loved the soft scallop and shrimp dumplings in a steamer basket, but the Red-Cooked Pork here truly amazed. A half-pound-plus of pork shoulder braised with Asian spices surrendered to the touch of the fork. Dinner's end brought a parfait of rice pudding, fresh mango and coconut, and a hint of rum. For romance, dine in the hidden bar room. 423 West Franklin Street, Chapel Hill; (919) 969-8846 or www.lanternrestaurant. com. Entrees: $13-$17.

Elaine's on Franklin

Directly across from Lantern sits this showpiece for Bret Jennings-one of Ben Barker's proteges. Amid dramatic, dim lighting and bold, contemporary, food-themed paintings, you'll enjoy earnest service, an intriguing wine list, and creative yet unpretentious dishes. Don't miss the renowned appetizer of grilled venison sausage patties layered with tiny, fluffy corn pancakes in maple syrup sauce. It's both as comforting as breakfast in bed and as fancy as a night on the town. I'd have never thought to pair foie gras with bits of country ham and grilled pineapple, but I'm glad Bret did. Entrees were nice, but they just didn't wow as much as these starters. Dessert is worth the calories here. I wanted the lemon chess pie to be tangier, but its texture and crust reached perfection. Peanut butter ice-- cream sundae was just plain fun. 454 West Franklin Street, Chapel Hill; (919) 960-2770 or www.elainesonfranklin. com. Entrees: $17-$26.

DANA ADKINS CAMPBELL

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Jul 2002
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