Cheat River: West Virginia

Bryan Moore's line arcs gracefully through the air like a calligrapher's pen across the page. The fly on its end greets clear, cold water rushing over rocks 15 inches below. Bryan is seeking brook trout, the legendary native fish of the Shavers Fork of the Cheat River, located high in the Appalachian Mountains of West Virginia.

At one time, he recalls, brook trout ran so thickly that sportsmen reported day catches of 200 fish. But decades of heavy logging at the beginning of the 20th century and later strip mining near the Shavers headwaters degraded the river, raising the water temperature and adding silt. The brook trout ran thickly no more.

In 1996, Zach Henderson, then a college student in Elkins, West Virginia, founded the Shavers Fork Coalition. This advocacy group partners with local residents, businesses, farmers, agencies, and landowners to protect the river.

As the highest river east of the Mississippi, the Shavers Fork deserves the attention. From its headwaters at 4,800 feet in Pocahontas County, it remains above 3,000 feet for much of its 84-mile journey to Parsons, West Virginia, where it joins the Black Fork to form Cheat River. At its lower end, the Shavers Fork is slower and relatively broad, embraced by thick stands of hemlock and maple. This section appeals to canoers, kayakers, and swimmers out for a relaxing afternoon. Farther up the river, though, the forest pulls away. The stream narrows, racing through boulder fields and producing impressive rapids such as the roaring High Falls of the Cheat.

As the river interacts with encroaching populations, the question of how to let people enjoy it without raining what makes it special is difficult. One man with an answer is John Smith, president of the Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad. Steel tracks that formerly carried spruce logs down the mountain now carry up fishermen, sightseers, and picnickers aboard a 50-passenger railbus called the Cheat Mountain Salamander. The area's rugged terrain and lack of roads make the train the perfect conveyance.

His railroad has worked with organizations such as Trout Unlimited to restock trout in the upper river, as well as replant native red spruce on the riverbanks to shade and cool the water. One benefit of these efforts is the abundant wildlife that passengers view from his train, including bears, bobcats, eagles, deer, and wild turkeys. "If you don't spot a black bear in the springtime, it's a rarity," John states.

Acid rain, erosion, and recreational development still pester the river, but Bryan remains a long-term optimist. "I might not see a complete restoration in my lifetime," he admits, "but I'd like to think my kids will see the benefits of what we're doing now."

Zach, who just received a graduate degree from Penn State in watershed management, can't leave the river behind. He says, "The blessing of working on a beautiful stream is that you come to love it."

The Cheat Mountain Salamander operates from early April through the end of October. For information call toll free 1-877-686-7245, or visit www.mountainrail.com.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Spring 2002
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