A taste of Williamburg

Sweet Success

It's "Death by Chocolate" to end all fatality by cocoa. Or perhaps, the one that began it all. In 1980, lauded executive chef Marcel Desaulniers opened The Trellis in the heart of Colonial Williamsburg, featuring savory regional ingredients (Virginia peanuts, Carolina quail, and Surry bacon and sausage). But the real draw here has always been the sugary last word: chocolate desserts. More than two decades later, Marcel boasts several cookbooks and awards. Chef Michael Holdsworth tends The Trellis kitchen while Marcel produces more volumes from his nearby test kitchen, Ganache Hill.

The Trellis was just renovated, keeping its original warm, casual feel, but adding fresh sophistication. They rotate a local art collection seasonally. Lunch is the best value here, and the wine list deserves a look. Save your calories, and head for the finish line, where elaborate cakes, cookies, ice creams, and sorbets beckon. 403 Duke of Gloucester Street, (757) 229-8610, www.thetrellis.com. Lunch entrees: $6.95-$13.95; dinner entrees: $16.95-$27.95.

Berret's Restaurant and Raw Bar

This is your spot if you crave seafood, want to stay in the village, like your casual duds, and still want creative food. Thick, creamy oyster and Surry bacon stew comes with a dollop of garlic "smashed" potatoes in the center. Generous crab cakes serve as canvas for a mosaic of local ham; sweet potato fries; and a relish of corn, tomato, onion, and asparagus, with three sauces-the dominant one being peanut. The short but nice wine list includes a few Virginia sips. The warm raspberry pie with flaky double crusts, vanilla ice cream, and true whipped cream is phenomenal. 199 South Boundary Street; (757) 253-1847, www.berrets.com. Lunch entrees: $5.95-$9.50; dinner entrees: $18-$25.

Pierce's Pitt Bar-B-Oue

You've voted this 30-year-old spot as a past Southern Living Readers' Choice, so I checked it out. It's cheerful, very friendly, and darn polished for a 'cue joint. I wouldn't put it against favorites from Texas, Tennessee, or Carolina, but you're far from those fire-tending meccas here. The ribs pass through the oven instead of the smoke, so go for the chunky, chopped pork in a light, tangy red sauce. Sides pale in comparison. 447 East Rochambeau Drive; (757) 565-2955. Barbecue plates: $6. 75-$15.99.

The Dining Room at Ford's Colony

For a romantic evening, splurge on this Colonial, country-clubbish hideaway in a private community. (The dining room is public, and a cab eases the tricky trek from the village.) While the food doesn't rival top Washington, D.C., spots, it's quite nice, and service and setting pamper. Executive chef David Everett uses local ingredients and even has breads and pastries made on site. Formal-suited waiters wow you with wild mushrooms, scallops, ostrich, duck, beets, and other treats. 240 Ford's Colony Drive; (757) 258-4107. Prix fixe dinner menus: $52 and $82; a la carte entrees: $38. DANA ADKINS CAMPBELL

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Apr 2002
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