SAB introduces beer portfolio to American press

Modern Brewery Age,  April 21, 2003  

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When South African Breweries says it is a company that is now entirely focused on beer, it is not an overstatement. This was brought home at a recent SABMiller press event in New York City, organized to introduce SAB's worldly brand portfolio to American journalists. SAB communications director Nick Chaloner presided, but it was clear that chief brewer Barry Axcell had orchestrated the evening's events.

That's because at this beer tasting event, there was no beer to be had, at least at first. Professor Axcell was very clear on when and how journalists would get their hands on his beer. They wouldn't be standing about for an hour before the tasting, guzzling any sort of beer they chose. They wouldn't be giggling at the tables as they tippled. The beer would be tasted, under controlled circumstances, in the proper way. Journalists could drink water if they liked, and they could eat some crackers if they absolutely had to, but their palates would not be sullied until the tasting began.

This disciplined approach created a rapt audience for Nick Chaloner's presentation on the evolution of SAB, which is now the world's second largest brewing conglomerate, with volume of 120 million hectoliters.

SAB operates 15 breweries in Europe, nine in the U.S., 15 in Africa, three in Central America, and 34 in Asia. The company also has about 34 commercial sorghum breweries around Africa. These breweries produce a dizzying array of brands, but the company chose to offer samples of eight at this press briefing(seven made it, but a crate of Kilimanjaro Premium Lager from Tanzania failed to get through customs in time). The inference could be drawn that some of these brands might show up in the U.S. market at some point. (In fact, three of the beers on the tasting docket were already well-known to this audience-Miller Lite, Miller Genuine Draft and Pilsner Urquell).

Once Prof. Axcell finally rolled out the beer, the first brand on the list was Miller Lite. The idea was to drink the less flavorful beers first, and build up to the hoppier, maltier brews. He described Lite as a "fast finishing" lager beer with hop bitterness at threshold levels.

Since Kilimanjaro didn't make it ashore, Miller Genuine Draft was the next on the list. It tasted like MGD.

The third beer was Tyskie Gronie, a Polish lager with 5.3% alcohol by volume. This light-bodied lager with a touch of bitterness was a champion at the Brewing Industry awards at Burton-on-Trent in 2002.

Number four on the table was Castle Lager, SAB's flagship brand; at 5.0% a.b.v. Somewhat meatier than a mainstream U.S. beer, with a higher hopping level to match. A nice, understated lager beer, perfectly balanced.

Number five on the docket was Snow 12 Degree, a Chinese brand with 5% a.b.v. Light in color and a bit on the sweet side, Snow is a very hot brand in China just now.

Number six on the tasting list was Pilsner Urquell, the only one of SAB's international brews currently in the U.S. market. This batch of Pilsner was delicious, albeit with an even higher diacetyl profile than usual.

The last beer on the list was in some ways the most impressive. The 6.1% a.b.v. Castle Milk Stout is a delicious milk stout, smooth, sweet and strong. This is one to look for once SAB rolls out some of its international beers, a nice counterpoint to the dry stouts that predominate in the U.S.

Axcell was an erudite host for the tasting, and also provided some insight into the history of beer and its position as a "forgotten nutraceutical." He pointed out that beer is equal or superior to wine and milk as a source of vitamins, fiber and antioxidant phenolics.

In discussions with Prof. Axcell, he was complimentary of the Miller Brewing team, headed, as it happens, by his former associate Dr. David Ryder. Axcell ruled out any kind of reformulations of Miller workhorses like Lite and MGD, but seemed to leave open the possibility that High Life could get a flavor face lift.

Professor Axcell offered impressive proof that a new beer-centric culture is in command at Miller Brewing Co.

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