Dark and Lovely color line touts first hypoallergenic benefits

Drug Store News,  April 7, 1997  by Liz Parks

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The newest ethnic color cosmetic line to hit the mass market is being driven "by the unfulfilled needs of women of color," according to Joyce Roche, president of Savannah, Ga.-based Carson Products.

Roche said Carson will launch its first color line, as well as the mass market industry's first ethnic hypoallergenic cosmetic line, under the Dark & Lovely brand starting in June or July.

There is no titanium dioxide in the formula, which means the makeup won't wind up looking ashy or chalky on dark skin. The 12 cream-to-powder foundations are non-comedogenic as well as hypoallergenic, which means they won't clog the pores. "That's an issue for many African-American women," said Roche, "because clogged pores damage the skin and cause breakouts." There are also eight shades of liquid foundation as well as four shades of loose powder.

The four shades of pressed powders and the loose powders are guaranteed to be oil absorbing, which is a plus for African-American women because their skin tends to be oily.

Because many African-American women have trouble with dry lips, the formulas in the lipsticks are extra mild, 85 percent natural ingredients, according to Roche. "Yet, even though they are non-drying, they'll give great coverage and will wear up to at least six hours," she said. There will be 18 shades of lip in the launch.

The oil-free blush in six shades, Roche said, won't streak or fade. Mascara will be added to the line later, but for the launch there will be four quad combinations of oil-free eye shadows, all the colors in matte shades.

There are also 20 shades of long-wearing, toluene- and formaldehyde-free nail enamel plus a base coat SKU that will protect the nail enamel from chipping.

Roche said the line is being packaged and positioned toward the young and sophisticated shopper who wants a department store quality cosmetic. "We think the formulas are great and the packaging gives the products purse appeal. Women want their cosmetics to look attractive when they pull them out of their purses."

The price points will be moderate, higher than Cover Girl and Maybelline, but lower than Revlon and L'Oreal. In the ethnic cosmetic category segment, Dark & Lovely color will compete directly against Black Opal, the highest price point line in mass distribution and Shades of You and Posner, the mid price point brands. It will also compete, to a lesser degree, against the value brand, Black Radiance and, the budget brand, Tropez, made by Carson's sister division, A.M. Cosmetics

Print will be the primary vehicle of ad support. Roche points out that print "is the primary medium used by consumers and it will give us the greatest frequency and reach." The ads will begin breaking in mid-summer and will run continuously throughout the first year of marketing, Roche said.

Roche also emphasized that management will take advantage of the strength of the Dark & Lovely brand name by putting coupons and product announcement brochures in the company's relaxer and hair color kits.

"It gives us an opportunity to reach very targeted consumers who are already Dark & Lovely users," Roche said, estimating that there are currently about 11 million consumers who use one or more Dark & Lovely products, and the Dark & Lovely brand, she said, has a 100 percent brand recognition.

The in-line merchandising presentation will require a minimum of 2 feet on the wall.

Early retailer reaction to the launch has been very positive.

"The Dark & Lovely brand name has a strong and loyal following," said the cosmetics category manager for one of the industry's biggest drug chains, "and that could translate into a solid base of users for a Dark & Lovely color line." y

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