Variety is the key to ethnic hair

Drug Store News,  May 28, 1990  

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Variety is the key to styling for ethnic hair

Years ago, sales in the ethnic hair care category were primarily driven by a new style like the curl, that would sweep the country and cause a tremendous demand for kits and maintenance products. But today's black women is more sophisticated, in the view of many ethnic hair care buyers.

As David Pearlman, the president of North American Beauty Supply, puts it, "Black women, like Caucasian women, don't want to be locked into any one look anymore. They want variety in their hair styles, and with today's more technically advanced products, black ladies can try all kinds of hair styles and still look great."

Most ethnic hair care buyers doubt that there will ever again be one look, like the curl, sweeping the country. Today they report seeing a variety of styles in their markets, with no one style dominant.

Commodities business

"Today, there is no direction in styles," said Lou Orenstein, president of Judith Lynn Beauty Supply. "Our sales for just about everything are up, but people are buying whatever they require to maintain whatever style they have. It's becoming a commodities business, just like mass-market hair care."

Natural hair is popular. The curl is still preferred by some women, but relaxed hair is probably the most popular style now because it allows the most versatility when women try new styles. There are also some new looks coming out of salons that are growing in popularity.

Wrapping the hair and setting it with a styling lotion is "hot" right now, several buyers said. Hair weaving is still growing in popularity, although the base of users is still relatively small. The same holds true for braiding.

Among both men and women, short to mid-length hair is popular. And in some regions of the country, men have adopted the high-top look, also known as the house cut, the bird's nest, or the flat cut, a look that seems to be strong in popularity because it's worn by many athletes and theatrical personalities.

Some of the growth in the ethnic product category is attributable to these current styling trends, buyers said. The body permed or dry curl look is continuing to be popular, and that has created a demand for retail maintenance products that let women control or maintain their preferred look.

In the retail marketplace, many sources said Soft Sheen is continuing to do very well with its Finishing Mist and Finishing Lotion, maintenance products popular with body perm users.

Dorum's Leisure Curl was the first maintenance products of this type to hit retail stores, and this line is still selling well. Pro Line also has some products in this category, and although its sales are not dramatic yet, it has promise, buyers said.

Soft Sheen also has a new scalp conditioning spray under its Carefree Classic Gold label that looks promising. Always Natural has a leave-in conditioner, 9-11, that is doing extremely well.

Modeled after a popular salon intensive conditioner, Fantastic IC, 9-11 gives retailers a chance to compete with salons in what seems to be a hot new segment; plus, buyers said it's a high-usage product, not just another styling aid that can last three to six months. Super Gro is also continuing to do well as a conditioner, buyers said.

In Detroit, Scott Gorley, vp-H&BAs/private label for Perry Drug, said his hair weaving maintenance items are picking up.

Some stores have been able to obtain a weave maintenance product that started out in beauty and barber (B&B) store distribution exclusively. This is the Gentille line from Kelly Chemical. Until recently, Gentille was mostly available only in salons or B&B stores, but now it's showing up at retail in some markets. It was designed to both detangle and cleans the hair.

Out on the West Coast, Chuck Lewman, president of Paul's Sundries in Los Angeles, reported that more women are starting to wear their hair in braids, which could eventually lead to some exciting new styling aids.

Lewman said that braid sprays that clean the hair and scalp sprays that moisturize the scalp and help prevent itchiness and dryness are becoming popular in salons and professional shops, and he thinks there are some products in development for the mass market now that could do well if the braid fashion trend becomes stronger.

Men who favor the high top cut are buying the gels or lotions they need to control the shape of their hair on the sides of their heads.

The high top look has also been a boon to the sales of clippers and razors.

B&B shops are reportedly doing a booming business with a professional clipping line called Hair Doodles. These clippers, which retail for $30 to $35 in B&B shops, have 1/4-inch blades instead of 1-inch blades, and are used for cutting designs into a high top cut.

They also come with their own stencils, and when Detroit-based distributor Standard Drug was able to get a gross of them for its retail customers, it sold out overnight, a buyer reported.