Swinging into softer colors, spring cosmetics lines demure

Drug Store News,  Nov 13, 2000  

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NEW YORK -- The year 2001 not only means New Year's resolutions, but new looks for lips, eyes, cheeks and nails, as well. Shifting from the deep auburn and red tones that have been so prominent this fall, new spring lines will offer a rainbow of subtle pinks, soft corals and bright magentas.

"We've been so into bold colors for the past few seasons, and Spring 2001 marks a transition away from that intensity," said Collier Strong, consulting makeup artist for L'Oreal. "Women are ready to go more natural but without sacrificing the impact of color on the face, which they've come to love and understand and really incorporate not only into their makeup, but what they wear as well."

L'Oreal plans to play up a whole "innocent" look with a new cosmetic line called Innocence, which includes an array of creamy nudes and hush pinks for lips, cheeks and eyes.

"We think pink will have the greatest impact and influence. There's a 'baby' quality to it--a freshness and innocence that we feel captures the spirit of the season perfectly," Strong explained. "The freshness and subtle sophistication we anticipate for spring really is an extension of the classic, ladylike ready-to-wear we saw on the runways. Women are ready to embrace femininity again."

But not everything's coming up roses for spring.

Though corals and creams will make a strong presence next year, "fresh blues come into play as well," said Christine Scillieri, Maybelline's associate vice president of product development. "They're not deep and dramatic [blues], but light and fresh like a Caribbean sea."

"For lips, the look is definitely going shiny," she said. "Glosses are a big trend. Whether they are rich and full in color or translucent sheers, glosses are appearing everywhere in all sizes, shapes, and flavors. Women of all ages are using glosses to achieve a fun, flirty look."

Scillieri also expects the new spring colors to reflect many of the prints and color accessories that were prevalent at recent Spring fashion shows. "This season, designers experimented with different geometric [shapes] and graphics and women should do the same with their makeup--they shouldn't be afraid to experiment."

However, "cosmetics are no longer used as an accessory," she said. "Instead, they're used to bring out a woman's natural features. The looks this season are fun and playful, which is the same attitude cosmetics take on."

Executives at Procter & Gamble agree that this spring will be a time for women to get daring. 'Women are encouraged to experiment with lines, shadows and finishes, working in harmony and contrast with the skin," said a Max Factor spokesperson.

However, as the discussion relates to actual colors, Max Factor execs predict atoned, subtle theme for cosmetics next spring, with colors that are washed and whitened. "The emphasis [will be] on natural skin and hair, extending those bare tones to the eyes and lips, for a feel of 'non-makeup' makeup," a Max Factor executive noted.

On the other hand, for nails, new Cover Girl slicks will include colors more in line with the aforementioned hot new colors for Spring 2001, including Tickled Pink, Powder Puff and Hula Blue. Similarly, Del's Sally Hansen line will unveil Pale Pastel Hard as Nails with Nylon--an elegant collection of plush pinks, airy silvers and soft pearls.

Cover Girl's other new items for Spring 2001 include six pink hues of Triple Lipstick, and four blue and pink shades of Cover Girl 1-Kit Professional Eye Enhancers. In addition several Cover Girl lip and eyeliners will come in similar shades.

"Continuing a trend from fall," the company is expecting a large emphasis on the eye color, offered a Cover Girl spokesperson. "Bright shades of blue and green are used to line the eyes, while bright pastel colors are applied from the lid to brow."

Scillieri agreed. "The eyes have become a big focus again. Women want perfectly groomed brows and lush lashes, and they're experimenting with different liners and shadows to achieve this look.

Strong prefers to think of the eyes as "accessories for the face, not the focal point," he said. "That doesn't mean the eye is neutral. Rather, it's highlighted with a wash of color that balances the lips and cheeks."

Another major color trend in lip, eye and nail color is a little bit more difficult to put a finger on in terms of an actual pigment, said Diane Ranger, president and founder of Colorscience and Body Chemistry Manufacturing. Ranger expects such "chameleon" colors to play a factor in the year ahead. "Chameleon colors are colors that change as the light changes or as the angle of the light changes," she explained. Hollis Wright, Colorscience's director of marketing--and a well-known Houston makeup artist to boot-said to look for the return of the "'70s influence, along with the '80s authority" with more transparent matte pastels for eyes.

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