Licata casts worldly eye on service

Nation's Restaurant News,  Dec 22, 2003  by Amy Spector

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Gualtiero Marchese, the internationally renowned restaurant outside of Milan, Italy, is a far cry from Salerno's Restaurant in Chicago, but for globetrotter Michael Licata, president and chief executive of the Chicago-based International Foodservice Manufacturers Association, such diverse restaurant experiences are all in a day's' work--and all memorable.

When you think of restaurant service, what comes to mind?

A positive experience. The timing is right, the spacing is right, you're not looking for anything. It's like the June Taylor Dancers.

Where have you had the best restaurant service?

Le Tour d'Argent in Paris. You sit back and watch it happen. Also Gualtiero Marchese's villa has a room that is just breathtaking and an absolutely perfect-sized glass for every wine. At Tru in Chicago they outthink you on making service perfect.

Where have you had the worst restaurant service?

I ordered steak and pomme frites, and the steak came with a sauce. The waiter's explanation was, "That's the way we do it." When I asked to have it without the sauce, he took it to the kitchen, scraped off the sauce and brought it back.

Do you usually leave a set percentage tip or does it vary?

For the most part I tip around 20 percent. It can go up from there.

What is your pet service peeve when you dine out?

When I put the fork and knife on my plate [to clear them] and the [server] takes them off the plate and puts them back on the table.

What makes you happiest when you dine out?

When the server has a bit more command of the menu other than just taking the order. It's like the owner is standing there, taking care of you.

Do you try to find a manager when there is a problem?

I don't find a manager on the spot. That's like interrupting a doctor in the middle of surgery.

How many times will you try a restaurant if you had bad service the first time?

I separate bad service from a server having a bad day. If it's only the server, I'll try the restaurant again.

Who are your service role models?

Rich Melman, Danny Meyer, Nick Valenti, Ted Balestreri, Bert Cutino, Ralph Brennan, Ron Woodsby. Service is synonymous with them.

Do you believe service is a trainable skill or an inherent quality?

You can teach someone what side to serve from and what's on the menu, but great service is a function of the person.

When you are hiring, what do you look for in IFMA's customer service staff?

People who are confident and who work well independently.

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