Mercier: specialized menu demands dedicated distributors

Nation's Restaurant News,  Nov 26, 2007  by Caroline Perkins

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Mary Ann and Manuel Mercier have been running the Youngtown Inn in Lincolnville, Maine, since 1991. The Inn, a charming restored farmhouse built in 1810, has six guest rooms, a lounge with a fireplace and a restaurant that seats 70. The facility also is available for wedding receptions and business retreats.

The Merciers met on a Copenhagen-based cruise ship on which Manuel was the executive chef. He had worked for many years at the Grosvenor House hotel in London before joining Ocean Cruise Lines. Mary Ann, a native New Yorker, had been working in bond sales. After meeting Mary Ann, Manuel accepted a job in New York as private chef for the Wildenstein Gallery and household. They were married within the year and shared the dream of opening an inn. After a two-year search, they settled in Maine. Mary Ann is the Inn's business manager and hostess while Manuel is the chef. Manuel was raised in Paris and the menu reflects his upbringing and training. For instance, entrees include crevettes Provencale, filet de saumon en croute and filet poele au Gorgonzola.

While the interview with chef Mercier was being conducted at the Inn, Russ Marquis, a marketing associate for Sysco of Northern New England, also was making a "hot shot" delivery of some much-needed dry goods. A hot shot is a delivery made by a sales rep in addition to the regularly scheduled delivery by truck. Marquis has been a sales rep for Sysco for 21 years and has served the Inn for close to five years.

One of my questions is answered already. Obviously, you use Sysco as a broadline distributor.

Yes, we have a number of distributors, but Sysco supplies all of our paper goods and specialty products like oils, foie gras and game. Russ pays a lot of attention to us. We have a very small storage capacity. We keep as little stock as possible, so we need frequent deliveries. When I need something, he will make a special delivery in his own pickup truck.

What other distributors do you use?

We have Dole & Bailey and Sid Wainer out of Boston. Dole & Bailey supplies our meat and Sid Wainer [provides] a lot of our produce. We also buy locally. I like to have a seasonal menu.

What do you look for in a distributor?

Reliability and quality are most important. My reps really know my menu and what I need. I change the menu every two to three weeks. I like to use baby vegetables, and this fall will have bisques as well as ostrich and pheasant on the menu. They have sourced this great chocolate from Venezuela to use in chocolate mousse and our molten cake.

Do you work alone as a chef?

In the summer when it's the busiest, my son, who is a chef in London, comes over to work with me.

How does distribution here differ from that in France?

The sales people in France come into the restaurant and hang around the bar with an aperitif for about two hours. They are not like my reps here who really held me out when I need them.

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