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Southwest sizzle: suddenly Phoenix and Scottsdale have a ton of great places to eathere are the ones you can't miss
Sunset, Dec, 2005 by Melissa Castleman, Amy Traverso
Scottsdale has 600-plus restaurants--and more important, both it and neighboring Phoenix now have quality to match the quantity. In fact, as popular as the cities already are with sun seekers and spring-training baseball fans, the food alone is now attracting tourists.
Chef Nobu Fukuda has ingeniously introduced sushi to tapas at Sea Saw, young William Bradley has redefined the American steakhouse at Vu, and Barrio Cafe's Silvana Salcido Esparza has given the grateful barrio her own inspired take on Mexican fare.
And that's just the beginning. Read on for the tables where we're most excited to pull up our chairs--and look for the sun icon, sun seekers: Several of these restaurants have great outdoor patios.
Barrio Cafe
Chef Silvana Salcido Esparza's little high-energy spot is a riot of color. You won't find burritos, but you won't miss them with such comforting, robust fare to choose from as poblano chiles stuffed with chicken, apples, nuts, and cilantro, or blue-corn enchiladas with crab and Mexican goat cheese. $$$; lunch and dinner Tue-Sun, brunch Sun. 2814 N. 16th St., Phoenix; 602/636-0240.
Deseo
Sit at the ceviche bar and watch the chefs toss tuna with white soy sauce, citrus, and cilantro, or shrimp with roasted tomatoes and avocado slices. Douglas Rodriguez, the granddaddy of Nuevo Latino cooking, is consulting chef, and the menu takes classics like duck confit and wraps them in Latininspired preparations like tamales steamed in banana leaves. Don't miss the Argentina-inspired churrasco of beef, a tender fillet served with a tangy chimichurri sauce (here made with basil instead of the usual parsley). The menu encourages multiple tastings with ceviche, soup, and entree "samplers," so taste away. $$$$; dinner Wed-Sun. Westin Kierland Resort, 6902 E. Greenway Pkwy., Scottsdale; 480/624-1015.
Kai
The dining room's stunning views of the mountain-rimmed Gila River Indian Community are matched by the Native American-inspired cooking from the kitchen. Don't miss the Sioux-raised buffalo tenderloin with cholla cactus buds and saguaro-blossom syrup, or the zippy olive oil made from fruit pressed by local tribe members and served up with warm, seeded breads. $$$$; dinner Tue-Sat. Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort & Spa, 5594 W. Wild Horse Pass Blvd., Chandler; 602/225-0100.
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Pizzeria Bianco
It's no surprise that Chris Bianco won a 2003 James Beard award for "Best Chef Southwest." Pizza fiends call his the best pies in America, and even when the mercury reaches 110[degrees], folks still line up 40 minutes before opening. Why? Ingredients are impeccable (mozzarella is housemade; produce, often organic), combinations are fresh but never wacky, and the pies are baked in a wood-fired oven. Bianco creates the perfect culinary alchemy of crisp-chewy crust and rich, bubbly toppings. $$; dinner Tue-Sat. 623 E. Adams St., Phoenix; 602/258-8300.
Pane Bianco
The same standards that made Pizzeria Bianco such a critical success guide this 2-year-old takeout sandwich shop near Steele Indian School Park. Ingredients such as tuna with arugula, lemon, and nicoise olives, or mozzarella with fresh tomatoes and basil, are layered in crusty focaccia rolls (baked in-house, naturally). In the Italian tradition, everything is kept very simple and close to the source. $; lunch Tue-Sat. 4404 N. Central Ave., Phoenix; 602/234-2100.
Sea Saw
A former ski patrolman, chef Nobu Fukuda combines inventive Japanese tapas (think pork belly steamed in banana leaves and a wonderful whitefish carpaccio with skillet-baked scallion bread) with left-of-center wine pairings. Watch him work his magic from one of the handful of seats at the exhibition bar. $$$; dinner daily. 7133 E. Stetson Dr., Scottsdale; 480/481-9463.
Vu
Like many Scottsdale restaurants, Vu is a glossy resort dining room catering to urbanites and golfers. But this is no bloated hotel cafeteria. At 30, chef de cuisine William Bradley has turned the steakhouse concept on its ear. The dining room is desert-sleek, the ingredients carefully chosen, the preparations ambitious. Bradley understands that aroma is the better part of flavor, so tender young greens are served with a lemon verbena-scented vinaigrette, and delicate John Dory fillets are finished with king crab, kumquats, and sorrel. $$$$; dinner Mon-Sat. Hyatt Regency Scottsdale at Gainey Ranch, 7500 E. Doubletree Ranch Rd., Scottsdale; 480/444-1234.
Zinc Bistro
Isn't it nice to know that, even on the edge of the Sonoran Desert, you can still get a good steak au poivre and proper pommes frites? Zinc Bistro brings a little Parisian flair to an upscale Scottsdale pedestrian mall. Have a kir at the zinc-topped bar and slather some pate on crusty bread. And don't overlook the dessert crepes. $$$; lunch and dinner daily. Kierland Commons, 15034 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. 140, Scottsdale; 480/603-0922.
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