It's Ski Town, U.S.A.: Colorado's Steamboat Springs is the ultimate snowy getaway

Bordered by endless ranchland and the snow-smothered Medicine Bow Mountains, Steamboat Springs peeks out of Colorado's broad Yampa Valley as a compact island of civilization more than 100 miles west of Denver.

Above the town, a cap of steam rises from its signature hot springs. Get closer, and you'll see SUVs topped with loaded ski racks, and pickup trucks and Stetson hats used for work, not show; you'll also sense an almost maniacal civic devotion to winter recreation.

You're entering "Ski Town, U.S.A." And with its historic Howelsen Hill Ski Area, world-class Steamboat Ski Area, miles of nordic ski trails, and profusion of great restaurants and cultural attractions, Steamboat Springs is one of the best places in the West for travelers who refuse to hibernate in winter.

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DAY 1 Friday

You're getting some exercise today, so begin with a stirring selection of roasted coffees and fresh baked goods at Mocha Molly's, a great stop for surveying Steamboat's downtown scene, located mostly on Lincoln Avenue.

For a winter workout big on scenic value, the Steamboat Ski Touring Center offers 9 miles of groomed nordic trails and 6 miles dedicated to snowshoeing. If you're a beginner just looking to acclimate, try Fish Creek Loop, a favorite for its friendly terrain and elk-spotting possibilities along the flanks of Boot Hill. After expending calories, pick up a lunch to go at Backcountry Provisions, known for its extensive sandwich menu.

Then it's off to the spectacular rustic outdoor setting of Strawberry Park Hot Springs for a therapeutic soak. At the park, which is tucked between mountain ridges, geothermal waters spill into a large natural 104[degrees] pool before cascading to smaller, secluded pools. Winter road restrictions require four-wheel-drive vehicles, so most bathers use the shuttle service provided by Strawberrie Park Hot Springs Tours.

After your muscles are soothed, check out a local institution, F.M. Light & Sons, a family-owned business celebrating its 100th anniversary and displaying one of the finest western-wear selections anywhere. Now that you've tucked yourself into a new pair of boots, it's dinner-time. Order up peppery seared duck breast at the Mahogany Ridge Brewery & Grill, and enjoy craft beers like the rich seasonal Alpenglow, a heartwarming brew on a cold winter's night.

DAY 2 Saturday

You can't pass up a day of alpine skiing in a town that overtly celebrates winter. But before heading to the slopes, be sure to carbo-load at Winona's, purveyor of the best waffles and breakfast burritos in town.

The meal will serve you well as you begin a day of schussing at Steamboat Ski Area, which received over 25 feet of its legendary--and trademarked--Champagne Powder last season. The resort's 65 miles of runs cater to all abilities, and it's easy to find the perfect combination of sun, snow, and terrain somewhere on the ski mountain's 2,965 acres.

Intermediates and up should try Pioneer Ridge, Sunshine, and Storm Peak, aspen-edged areas that hold some of Steamboat's best runs. When it's quitting time, ski to the base area's Slopeside Grill and enjoy a snack from the huge menu.

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If your thighs are cooperating, do a little exploring. Down in town, don't miss the imaginative works at the spacious Steamboat Art Company. Prices run the gamut on home furnishings and handcrafted artistic pieces designed with Rocky Mountain flair, and the assemblage is so vast you'll feel you've entered a Western art bazaar.

To satiate a skier's appetite, do what locals do when they need an Italian food fix: Order the Godfather--a stupendous combination of calamari, shrimp, clams, and mussels served with pesto over linguini--at Cugino's.

DAY 3 Sunday

Start with a leisurely breakfast of Eggs Benedict New Yorker at homey Creekside Cafe & Grill. While you're sipping your second cup, take a moment to admire the mountain-chic decor and the whimsical sky mural on the ceiling.

An easy drive brings you to the Eleanor Bliss Center for the Arts at the Depot; the galleries, housed in the city's refurbished train depot, show off Steamboat's creative artistic side, with a rich selection of contemporary art.

Then grab a quick lunch--like the spicy Asian salad or guilt-free veggie burger--at Freshie's, before heading off to skate at the Howelsen Ice Arena. The enclosed facility is Olympic caliber in size and quality, and you'll likely witness local talent of near-similar ability.

While you're there, walk over to legendary Howelsen Hill Ski Area and you will probably see at least one Olympic ski jumper in training, soaring off the 114-meter jump.

As night falls, you'll be lured to the inviting glow emanating from Off the Beaten Path, an eclectic bookstore/coffeehouse/wine bar in a Victorian-style house. Later, treat yourself to dinner at Rio Grande Mexican Restaurant, another local favorite for its Tex-Mex menu and potent top-shelf margaritas. And have the chips--you've earned them.