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Noel in North Beach: families shop for seasonal treats in San Francisco's Italian enclave
Sunset, Dec, 2004 by Abigail Peterson
It's more likely to be sunny than snowy, but make no mistake--it's holiday time in the city's North Beach neighborhood. "North Beach at Christmas is all about family," says Silvia Santucci Scott, who, along with sister Christina Santucci, runs popular Stella Pastry. "People come to the neighborhood to get all the things they need to prepare for their own celebrations. Italians value family so much."
Start crossing names off your favorite foodies' Christmas lists at Scott's cheerful Stella Pastry (446 Columbus Ave.; 415/986-2914), with its cloud-painted ceilings and behind-the-register shrine to Marlon Brando. The must-taste here is the handsome sacripantina, an airy layered cake with Marsala wine--infused zabaglione filling--have a slice with coffee or get a whole one to go as a gift.
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A few doors down is Biordi Art Imports (412 Columbus; 415/392-8096), the deservedly loved Italian tableware and ceramics store. And on the corner is the National Shrine of St. Francis of Assisi (610 Vallejo St.; 415/983-0405), where free organ and carol concerts are offered at 4 on Sundays year-round. Also nearby are Molinari Delicatessen (closed Sun; 373 Columbus; 415/421-2337), for imported olive oils, cheeses, pasta, and salami, and Little City Meats (closed Sun; 1400 Stockton St.; 415/986-2601), an old-school butcher where you can order a special holiday roast.
Continuing north on Columbus, stop in for an espresso at Caffe Roma (526 Columbus; 415/296-7942) and check out the hand-picked selection of Italian wines. And don't miss Jean-Marc and Casimira Gorce's XOX Truffles (754 Columbus; 415/421-4814). Their charmingly lumpy, nugget-size chocolates make yummy gifts.
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When you're ready for a meal, stash your parcels back at the car and settle in for casual, hearty fare. The sausages and polenta at Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe ($; 566 Columbus; 415/362-0536) are comforting in winter, as is the excellent roast chicken with coleslaw at Il Pollaio, a local favorite ($; closed Sun; 555 Columbus; 415/362-7727).
RELATED ARTICLE: Buon natale
The heart of North Beach is along Columbus Ave. between Broadway and Greenwich St. Parking is difficult; try the two public garages on Vallejo St. between Powell and Stockton Streets. Or take SF Muni--bus lines 15, 30, and 45 all travel through the neighborhood.
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PHOTOGRAPHS BY TERRENCE MCCARTHY
COPYRIGHT 2004 Sunset Publishing Corp.
COPYRIGHT 2005 Gale Group
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