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Half Moon Bay: catch the spirit of the season—and the sea—just south of San Francisco

Sunset, Dec, 2004 by Lisa Taggart

Finding the holiday spirit this month might be as easy as cruising over the Coast Range to the quiet town of Half Moon Bay. The drive rewards with a peaceful landscape of Christmas tree and flower nurseries, seaside bluffs, timeworn farmhouses, and the mesmerizing calm of the winter ocean. It's such a restful spot, it's surprising that this coastal retreat is so close to Bay Area bustle.

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Founded on fishing and farming, Half Moon Bay now has a downtown lined with shops and restaurants, offering a gift-gathering getaway. You'll likely see fog and maybe a coastal storm at this time of year, but winter skies can also be startlingly clear. And, with the area's December appeal still a relative secret, you'll likely have the beaches to yourself--with a few surfers and elephant seals here and there.

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DAY 1 Friday

Heading into town along State 92, stop in at one of the route's many nurseries. H. Pastorino Farms (12391 San Mateo Rd./State 92; 650/726-6440), Half Moon Bay Nursery (11691 San Mateo Rd.; 650/726-5392), and Repetto's Nursery & Florist (12331 San Mateo Rd.; 650/726-6414) offer holly, poinsettias, and wreaths. Warm up afterward with hearty soup in downtown Half Moon Bay at the pink-walled Two Fools Cafe (408 Main St.; 650/712-1222).

Main Street shopping. Nuestra Tierra (421 Main; 888/992-0008) has Mexican pottery and artwork. Moon News Bookstore (315 Main; 650/726-8610) offers everything from cookbooks to lit books, and Sense of Peace (604 Main, Ste. C and D; 650/712-8900) soothes with Japanese teas and Asian tableware. Find just about anything at vintage furniture/garden shop Half to Have It (601 Main; 650/712-5995). And Cunha's Country Store (448 Main; 650/726-4071) has been rebuilt after last year's fire and is better than ever.

In the mood for wine. If you're feeling Scroogey, perhaps sampling some vino will get you grinning. In the La Piazza shopping center, Half Moon Bay Wine & Cheese (604 Main; 650/726-1520) offers daily wine tastings (from $8). Or sip at the site of production at Obester Winery (12341 San Mateo Rd.; 650/726-9463), where, on December 4, you can do as the locals do and bring your own bottles for filling ($3.95 for a 750-ml. bottle).

Splurge on dinner. For a feast, head to sleek Cetrella Bistro and Cafe ($$$; 845 Main; 650/726-4090), where dishes feature seafood, mesquite-grilled meats, and local produce. On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings, you can also catch live jazz here. After dinner, have a nightcap at the San Benito House (356 Main; 650/726-3425) to toast the building's 100th anniversary in 2005.

DAY 2 Saturday

There's no better way to start a day than with a jaunt by the sea. From the bluffs of Francis State Beach ($6 per vehicle; 95 Kelly Ave.; 650/726-8819), you can sometimes see dolphins taking a morning fin stretcher. On the way back, stop at Andreotti Family Farm (Fri-Sun; 329 Kelly; 650/726-9151) for fresh produce. Or grab a coffee and a nice slice of pie at Half Moon Bay Coffee Co. (20A Stonepine Rd.; 650/726-3664).

Big swells or calm pools. The waves are building at Mavericks (follow trail at end of W. Point Ave.; 650/563-9060), the famed surf spot 1/2 mile off Pillar Point where, when conditions are right, surfing's best will compete in one of the biggest big-wave competitions around. Or, 8 miles north of Half Moon Bay in Moss Beach, investigate the calmer waters of the anemone-filled tidepools at Fitzgerald Marine Reserve (free; check tide tables and go at low tide; California Ave. at State 1; 650/728-3584).

Fish food. In Princeton-by-the-Sea, 2 miles south of Moss Beach, munch on fish and chips from Barbara's Fishtrap (281 Capistrano Rd.; 650/728-7049). You can also check out the Dungeness crab harvest in full swing; fishermen sell their take right off the boat in the harbor.

A stellar drive. The beaches south of Half Moon Bay are fairly deserted this month. At Ano Nuevo State Reserve (1 New Years Creek Rd., off State 1; 800/444-4445), the male northern elephant seals are getting frisky and picking fights. Fascinating guided tours are offered December 15 to March 31 ($5, reservations required).

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Dine in, or catch a groove. Back in Half Moon Bay, pick from Italian specialties at Pasta Moon ($$$; 315 Main; 650/726-5125) or outstanding sushi at Sushi Main Street ($$; 696 Mill St.; 650/726-6336). After, head to perky, colorful Ladida Jazz Cafe (500C Purissima St.; 650/726-1663) for live jazz beginning at 7 p.m. Saturdays.

DAY 3 Sunday

Grab a table at Moonside Bakery and Cafe ($; 604 Main; 650/726-9070) for excellent scrambles and waffles to start the day right.

Explore early. For insight into the area's past, drive south on State 1 for about 1 mile, then go east on Higgins Purisima Road. On your right, you'll see the 150-year-old James Johnston House (650/726-0329). Continue east and follow the road about 1 1/2 miles to Burleigh H. Murray Ranch (free; 650/726-8819), where you can take a stroll on the main trail to see a 100-year-old dairy barn unlike any other: It's built into the side of the hill. Head back the way you came, or follow the shady trail along Mills Creek for another mile's walk.

Half Moon Bay: catch the spirit of the season—and the sea—just south of San Francisco

Sunset, Dec, 2004 by Lisa Taggart

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