Discover wild Alaska: the supersize grandeur of the far north—its glaciers, its mountains, its wildlife—is more accessible than ever

Steven R. Lorton

Barely a dozen miles out of Anchorage, the electric sense impending adventure hits. My wife, Anna Lou, and I are driving along he edge of Turnagain Arm, where great jagged peaks capped with ice cut into the deep blue sky across the inlet. The air is chilly arid clean and smells faintly of cedar.

In a land where the summer sun hardly sets and distances are better measured in travel time than miles, outside perceptions are easily challenged. Alaska certainly is big, yet a trip here can be easily managed and affordable. Some of the state's most dramatic scenery, including Kenai Fjords and Mt. McKinley, is on our 10-day, 878-mile driving itinerary.

This vast subcontinent that bums into the imagination doesn't wait long to reveal itself. Our first stop of a moose.

Anchorage to Seward

We see this particular moose from the boardwalk at the Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge.

After logging a few more miles along Turn-again Arm, we pull over to break out the binoculars again. The blurry spots of white out on the water turn out to be beluga whales, and we watch as they cruise the receding tide.

With the number of times we stop to sightsee, we're lucky it's only 60 miles to the coastal-mountain resort town of Girdwood. Built around a ski area tucked into a stunning glacial valley, Girdwood is the kind of low-key town that makes us think of moving here.

At Alyeska Resort, an aerial tramway climbs 2,028 feet up to hiking trails and a top-of-the-world view stretching back down the valley to Turnagain Arm. There we stand, encircled by snowy mountains and counting seven blue-iced glaciers wedged between peaks.

Later, the cacophony around the bar at the Double Musky is nearly deafening. Locals flock here because the restaurant's smallest steak weighs in at a pound. But it isn't the beef that draws us, it's the heavenly halibut ceviche and house specialties such as etouffee and crawfish pie. The menu makes sense when you meet Bob Persons, who moved here from Alabama with wife Deanna and opened the restaurant in 1979. The adventuresome food complements the local lifestyle.

The sun's still up when we climb into bed at 10, and it's up when we rise at 6 the next morning to head south to Seward and catch a boat tour of Kenal Fjords National Park.. This overlooked park is a don't-miss experience. Even when the clouds are low and occasionally spitting rain, the steep-walled inlets Where grumbling glaciers plow into the ocean are spectacular. In places, the boat gets so close to the rocky cliffs that we expect to hear an agonizing scrape. Sea otters are everywhere.

Heading back to Seward, I notice that my tongue is still tingling from the glacier ice the crew brought aboard for us to taste. Exhilarated and exhausted, I turn in for the night.

Seward to Gakona

2 Days 293 Miles

The brisk air that comes off the water at Whittier is redolent of salt water, creosote, and fish. As the E. L. Bartlett pulls from the dock with our car safely aboard, we see hundreds of fishing vessels in the harbor. Thousands of seagulls flap into flight, squawking and swooping as they escort the boat away from the second-largest rookery on Prince William Sound.

Captain John Kiabo brings the ferry close to shore at Bull's Head Point, where hundreds of barking sea lions lollygag in the sun, some nursing month-old pups. We take cups of coffee onto the deck to view humpback whales and pods of orcas. The ferry pauses only when it passes the Columbia Glacier. As we watch, the distant, towering wall of ice groans; then, with a horrendous splitting sound, an enormous vertical slice of ice pulls away and crashes into the sea.

The ferry revs back to life and later passes Bligh Reef, where the Exxon Valdez ran aground in 1989, spilling 11 million gallons of oil into the sound.

Driving off the ferry, we bead into Valdez--rebuilt after it was hit by a tidal wave caused by the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake. It's now the terminus of the 800-mile Trans-Alaska Pipeline and portal into the vast, unpopulated Alaskan interior.

Heading north on Richardson Highway (State 4), we speculate about how little Alaska has changed in the last century. This road is so lightly traveled that, while paved, it's dusty where we pass the massive ice falls of the Worthington Glacier State Recreation Site. About 65 miles north of Valdez, we pull over at Pump Station 12 for a good view of the pipeline, which slips silently through the brush like a metallic anaconda.

While there are the scruffy basics of a town at Glennallen, places like Gakona and Copper Center are barely villages. To the east are the peaks of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve, some topping 14,000 feet. These stops are among the last places in the state where you'll find a doorway into the early days of the Alaska frontier: the roadhouse.

A rambling collection of old log buildings put together with wood dowels, the Gakona Lodge and Trading Post dates back to 1904 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Barbara Strang greets us with a welcoming Alaska smile.

"When you were Out in the middle of nowhere in brutal weather, the roadhouse represented civilization and safety," she explains. "Travelers found a warm place to sleep, buy food and supplies, rest horses, or get attention for frostbite. It was the area hub. There aren't many of them left."

We take our spot in the dining room for Strang's fresh Copper River red salmon, simply grilled in a cookshack out back.

Gakona to Denali National Park

3 Days 221 Miles

Hoping to see as much wildlife as possible, we get up near sunrise--about 3 A.M.--to start across the 134-mile Denali Highway (State 8). Just over the Tangle River, the pavement becomes gravel and the potholes get big. We slow down, pulled along by the majestic scenery. Vast sweeps of marshy valley stretch out before us; the massive mountains to the north change colors by the minute in the cloud-filtered light of an endless day. Streams dammed by beavers form little ponds.

Five hours after starting Out, we pass our first car: Everybody waves. We drive into the cloud of dust they've left behind; they drive into ours. Finally we reach Gracious House Lodge and stop for breakfast.

Three hours later, we roll into Cantwell. The car is filthy and both of us are caked with dust, but we feel outrageously courageous. We're ready now for the ultimate Alaskan wilderness, Denali National Park & Preserve.

Ranking right up there with Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon as one of America's premier parks, Denali is about as wild as most people will ever want to experience. Here, just 250 miles south of the Arctic Circle, grizzly bears meander along the roads, caribou feed with calves in tow, and mountain goats and Dall sheep cling to high outcroppings. There's never a question that the 6 million acres of park belong to the wildlife--despite the well-managed herds of tourists who come to look, all aboard buses.

Because of its size and shuttle-bus access, this is a park you can barely see in two days; given the stunning landscape and wildlife, you may want to stay longer. Not once during our visit, however, do the clouds part to reveal the park's most prominent landmark: 20,320-foot Mt. McKinley, which towers above the Alaska Range.

Denali National Park to Anchorage

2 Days 237 Miles

We take our time heading south on the George Parks Highway (State 3), stopping to hike and pulling out at Denali State Park viewpoints to try to glimpse Mt. McKinley. Still no luck.

Farther south, the bush town of Talkeetna is the staging area for most of the climbers who attempt to summit McKinley each year. Fat-tired planes buzz the nearby airport, taking climbers, guides, and gear to mountain base camps.

Until he retired from working as a guide two years ago, Talkeetna resident Brian Okonek spent most of his summers on Mt. McKinley. Friends say he's summited more than 25 times, but Okonek talks about McKinley with soft-spoken respect. "The mountain is always in control," he says. "You go to it, and it decides what you do and how you fare. It has immense power. The power of life and death, really."

That night, while we sit on the deck of the Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge, the clouds finally lift long enough for us to see the mountain that the Athabascan people still call Denali. Rising majestically above the rest of the range, it embodies what Okonek was talking about.

The drive up the soon-to-be-paved road over Hatcher Pass is one of the great secrets of Alaska. Don't rush it; it's narrow in places and the drops are sheer.

Beyond the pass, we visit Independence Mine State Historical Park and take a hike--our last taste of the wild before reaching Palmer. As we head back to Anchorage, it doesn't take long to reenter the contemporary world. Gas stations appear at regular intervals, traffic thickens, a huge sign advertising car sales pops up.

Our drive into the heart of Alaska has revealed a diversity of people and complexity of geography that, like views of Mt. McKinley, can be elusive but are there to be discovered. This untamed country can get into your blood. We met one grizzled old-timer who still runs a winter trapline near Cantwell and asked him what holds him here. "You don't claim this land," he replied, "this land claims you." He was right. We'll be back, and next time we'll head beyond the end of the road.

RELATED ARTICLE: Gracious House

The main building has a false front, an ersatz log cabin applied to a World War II-era Quonset hut. Inside, the stereo plays an orchestral version of South Pacific. The gift shop is loaded with wonderful Indigenous kitsch. Owners Butch and Carol Gratias keep the coffee coming and suggest the Mother Lode Breakfast--two eggs, hash browns, and biscuits with gold miner's gravy.

Alaska Grand Tour

Our Alaska Grand Tour starts in urban Anchorage but quickly heads into spectacular country. The first part of the trip explores the coast, a region of emerald rain forests, deep fjords, rich sealife, and tidewater glaciers that crumble into icy seas. After crossing Prince William Sound on a ferry, we head north and inland toward the Arctic Circle to stand near the base of 20,320-foot Mt. McKinley. Our trip takes 10 days, but--for the true Alaska wilderness experience--we highly recommend adding a side trip to a wilderness park lodge (below, far right). For a shorter, 5-day option, see "Mini Grand Tour" (above right).

This area is mostly undeveloped wilderness. Reservations are essential; lodging, while sparse in many areas, runs the gamut from rustic to luxurious. Your best and often only dining option will be at your lodging.

The trip of a lifetime

* Spend 10 days

* Traverse 878 miles

* Explore on a backroad adventure

* Cruise past tidewater glaciers

* Hike the tundra

* Spot wild animals

* Fish for salmon

* See 20,320-foot Mt. McKinley, North America's tallest mountain

* Relive gold-rush history

* Sleep beneath the midnight sun

Essentials

Summer hours. Schedules listed here reflect seasonal hours, generally in effect from ate May into early September. Always call ahead--especially if you'll be traveling early or late in the season.

Planning your trip. Lodging, ferry, air, and tour reservations are essential. Two invaluable resources: The Milepost ($26; www.themilepost.com or 800/726-4707) is updated annually, has detailed maps and visitor information, and has been Alaska's essential driving guide since 1949. The Alaska Travel Industry Association (www.travelalaska.com or 800/862-5275) publishes a free travel planner and is an excellent source of tour and travel information.

Suitcase must-haves. Alaska weather is capricious, ranging from rainy and cold to sunny and hot--sometimes all in the same day. Pack rain gear and layers of warm clotheses; serious hikers should pack a change of boots. Take insect repellent and consider a head net for hiking and camping. Outside of Anchorage, "dressing up" means clean jeans.

Driving and road conditions. All of the roads on our route can be driven with a standard rental car; higher clearance and all-wheel drive may come in handy on grave roads. Be certain to ask about driving restrictions and insurance coverage when you make reservations; get applicable information in writing. On our route, Denali Hwy. (State 8) and Fishhook-Willow Rd. are mostly graded gravel. Sections can be rough and suffer potholes and washouts in bad weather.

To check weather and road conditions anywhere in the state, visit www.dot.state.ak.us and click on Traveler Info." Or dial 511 for recorded information once you arrive. Top off the tank and check fluid levels in towns; carry extra food and water.

Be cautious of animals. Wild animals--especially moose and bears--are unpredictable and dangerous. Never approach or feed any wildlife.

Camping and camper rentals. There are plenty of campgrounds along our route, and camping is a great option--especially for families. A 24-foot camper that sleeps five rents for about $155 per day and 15 cents a mile; propane and incidentals (like bedding and supplies) probably will cost another $100. Reserve ahead; for a list of rental companies, contact the Alaska Travel Industry Association (at left).

Denali National Park & Preserve

Cars are prohibited in the park; you'll need to take a shuttle bus (from $17) or a commercial tour (from $36); both require reservations. The day before heading into the park, stop at the visitor center for planning help, hiking options (trails are few; it's mostly open, cross country hiking), and wildlife information. Start early: the first shuttle leaves before 6 A.M. during peak season and takes four hours to get to the Eielson Visitor Center. Plan for a long day, dress warmly, and take rain gear, insect repellent, water, food, and maps. Park fees: $5 per person, $10 per family. For shuttle and campground reservations, call (800) 622-7275. For general information, visit www.nps.govldena or call (907) 683-2294.

Anchorage

Allow at least a day to see the city. Stick to downtown for the best dining and shopping options and the summer flower displays. Start at the Anchorage Visitors Information Center (546 W Fourth Ave.; www.anchorage.net or 907/274-3531), located in a log cabin. Visit the Anchorage Museum of History and Art (Seventh Ave. and St.; 907/343-4326) for exhibits of contemporary and native artists works. Gardeners will enjoy the hardy perennials at the Alaska Botanical Garden (Tudor Rd. at Campbell Airstrip Rd.; 907/770-3692).

Kenai Fjords National Park

The roughly 670,000-acre park (www.nps.govlkefj or 907/224-3175) is home to sea mammals, thousands of nesting birds, and tidewater glaciers best seen from the deck of a Seward-based tour boat. We chose Kenai Flords Tours (www.kenaifjords.com or 800/478-8068), which offers 6- or 10-hour trips from $109. Hikers can take a strenuous all-day, 7-mile round-trip hike to the icy, glacial edge of the massive Harding Icefield. In Seward, the Alaska SeaLife Center (www.alaskasealife.org or 800/224-2525) is an excellent aquarium-like research facility.

Independence Mine State Historical Park

This gold-mining outpost was built in 1939 and is a testament to the fortitude of Alaska's early miners. Stop first at the visitor center (907/745-2827), once the manager's house, to see historical displays and pickup a self-guided tour map. Hike the nearby 7-mile round-trip Reed Lakes Trail past old mining equipment to a stunning alpine lake. Get directions at the park.

Denali Highway

Opened in 1957, the 134-mile Denali Hwy. (State 8) is mostly gravel and becomes narrow and winding west of Maclaren Summit. There are a few lodges but no service stations; cell-phone service out here is unreliable. Before you head out, gas up and call 511 for road conditions.

Alaska Marine Highway System ferry

Driving from Portage to the Whittier ferry landing is an adventure; you'll pass through the 2 1/2-mile, single-lane Whittier Tunnel (from $12; 907/566-2244) that serves both trains and automobiles. The Valdez ferry (reserve early; $91 per full-size car plus $68 per passenger age 12 and older; www.ferryalaska.com or 800/642-0066) leaves Whittier at 2:45 P.M. daily (except Mon and Fri) for the nearly seven-hour crossing of Prince William Sound. Be at the dock two hours early; all adult passengers must have a government-issued photo ID.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve

The park's new visitor center has regional recreation information, natural-history exhibits, a film, and maps of the park, which is just across the Copper River (see "Wilderness Park Lodges," below right). Traditional fish wheels catching salmon on the river are private property. To drive into the park, check road conditions--four-wheel-drive advised east of Chitina--before leaving home. 8-6 daily. Mile 106.8 on Richardson Hwy. (State 4); www.nps.gov/wrst or (907) 822-5234.

The Full Grand Tour

Discover the essence of Alaska on this 10-day tour. DAYS 1-3: Anchorage to Seward for glaciers and a tour of Kenai Fjords National Park. DAYS 4-5: Seward to Gakona across Prince William Sound and over the Chugach Mountains. DAYS 6-8: Gakona to Denali National Park & Preserve, Mt. McKinley, and wildlife watching. DAYS 9-10: Denali National Park to Anchorage via Talkeetna, the salmon-filed Susitna River, and Independence Mine State Historical Park.

Mini Grand Tour

Don't have the 10 days our Grand Tour requires? You can hit the highlights in 5 full but exhausting days. DAYS 1-2: Seward and around the Kenai Fjords. DAYS 3-4: Seward to Denali National Park, with a day in Denali. DAY 5: Back to Anchorage via Independence Mine.

Worthwhile side trips

Take time to explore along our route, and you'll find plenty of discoveries just off the road.

(1) Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge

Long, wide boardwalks stretch into the more the 500 acres of the refuge, which is the home or migratory stop of more than 130 species of birds. Other resident critters include bears, coyotes, lynx, moose, and river otters. On the Seward Hwy. (State 1), 1/2 mile south of Rabbit Creek Rd. exit; (907) 267-2344.

(2) Alyeska Aerial Tramway

Offering spectacular views of neighboring peaks and glaciers, this ski-area cable car accesses great hiking. The posh Seven Glaciers Restaurant serves meals worthy of the scenery there's also a cafeteria. Tram operates 10:30-9:30 daily; $16 adults (free-for diners). Alyeska Resort, Girdwood; (907) 754-2275.

(3) Portage Glacier Recreation Area

The Begich-Boggs Visitor Center offers displays and an excellent film on glaciers, including the one calving icebergs into the lake fronting the building. 9-5 daily. Mile 5.2 on Whittier/Portage Glacier Access Rd.; (907) 783-2326.

(4) Worthington Glacier State Recreation Site

See the entire face of the 2,500-foot-tall glacier from wide asphalt trails: (stay on designated paths; touching or walking on the glacier can be hazardous). Interpretive plaques answer questions about this glacier and Alaska natural history. Mile 28 on Richardson Hwy. (State 4).

(5) Trans-Alaska Pipeline

The 800-mile Trans-Alaska Pipeline usually isn't easy to see, but the overlook at Pump Station 12 has a fine view of it. Mile 65 on Richardson Hwy.

(6) Denali State Park

Denali State Park offes magnificent views of Mt. McKinley and other Alaska Range peaks-including Denali and the Moose's Tooth-when it's not cloudy. View-points are well-marked highway turnoffs; milepost 147.1 has an interpretive kiosk, spoting scopes, and a small visitor center. (907) 745-3975.

(7) Talkeetna

This charming town is filled with serious mountain climbers and delightful old frame buildings. Stop at the Talkeetna Historical Society Museum ($3; First St.; 907/733-2487), in an old schoolhouse, to see bush-pilot and McKinley-climbing exhibits and to obtain a travel planer. Talkeetna Chamber of Commerce, www.talkeetna-chamber.com or (907) 733-2330.

(8) Salmon fishing

Three rivers converge near the town of Talkeetna to offer the state's best road-accessible salmon fishing May-Sep. Talkeetna fishing guides offer half-day (from $135), full-day (from $185), and longer trips for sockeye, silver, or king salmon. Prices include use of tackle, gear, and boats. Talkeetna Chamber of Commerce, www.talkeetnachamber.com or (907) 733-2330.

(9) Palmer

In 1935 the Matanuska Valley Colony, a New Deal program, brought 203 families here to farm cooperatively; the program dissolved in 1939. Visit Colony House Museum (open Tue-Sat; $2; 316 E. Elmwood Ave.; 907/745-1935) in the historic district. The nearby Palmer Visitor Information Center (723 S. Valley Way; 907/745-2880) has an excellent gift shop featuring local artists.

(10) Eklutna Historical Park

Built of hand-hewnlogs roughly 150 years ago, the Russian Orthodox Church in this Athabascan native village is surrounded by a cemetery filled with colorfully painted spirit houses. From Glenn Hwy. (State 1), take Eklutna Lake Rd. West about 1 mile to park; www.alaskaone.com/eklutna or (907) 696-2828.

Eat and sleep

Anchorage

Historic Anchorage Hotel. Built in 1936, this refurbished charmer has 26 rooms. From $199. www.historicanchoragehotel.com or (800) 544-0988.

The Hotel Captain Cook. The 547-room grand dame of Anchorage is modern and upscale. From $255. www.captaincook.com or (800) 843-1950.

Lucky Wishbone. This 1955 diner's chicken is a local legend. Closed Sun. 1033 E Fifth Ave.; (907) 272-3454.

Orso. Italian food with fresh Alaskan seafood flair. Lunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily 737 W. Fifth Ave.; (907) 222-3232.

Simon & Seafort's. Fresh Alaskan seafood and Cock Inlet views. Lunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily 420 L St.; (907) 274-3502.

Girdwood

Alyeska Resort. A grand 307-room hotel with mountain views. From $195. www.alyeskaresort.com or (800) 880-3880.

The Double Musky. Dinner Tue-Sun. Mile 0.3 on Crow Creek Rd.; (907) 783-2822.

Seven Glaciers Restaurant. Excellent dining at the top of the Alyeska tram. Dinner at 5:30 daily. (907) 754-2237.

Seward

Hotel Edgewater. A clean, basic 76-room hotel near the Alaska SeaLife Center. From $110. www.hoteledgewater.com or (888) 793-6800.

Hotel Seward. An updated 38-room Victorian-style inn. From $139. www.alaskaone.com/hotelseward or (907) 224-2378.

Valdez to Paxson

Copper Center Lodge. Three daily meals and 19 simple rooms (10 with baths) in an authentic log roadhouse. From $109. On Loop Rd. off mile 101 on Richardson Hwy (State 4), Copper Center; www.coppercenterlodge.com or (907) 822-3245.

Copper River Princess Wilderness Lodge. Upscale 85-room lodge serves three daily meals. From $99. Mile 102 on Richardson Hwy. at Brenwick-Craig Rd., Copper Center; www.princesslodges.com or (800) 426-0500.

Gakona Lodge and Trading Post. An authentic roadhouse with eight rooms; serves dinner nightly. From $85. Mile 2 on the Tok Cutoff Gakona; (907) 822-3482.

Denali Highway

Gracious House Lodge. A rustic and charming old roadhouse with 20 rooms (7 with private baths); serves three daily meals, From $705. Mile 82 on the Denail Hwy (State 8), 50 miles east of Cantwell; www.alaskaone.com/gracious or (907) 333-3148.

Tangle Lakes Ledge. Back to the frontier: 11 log cabins (without plumbing); serves three daily meals. From $75. Mile 22 on Denail Hwy., near Paxson; www.tanglelakeslodge.com or (907) 822-4202.

Near Denali National Park

Denali River Cabins and Cedars Lodge. 53 contemporary cabins (with showers), 48 motel-style rooms (with full baths); serves three daily meals. From $139. Mile 231.1 on George Parks Hwy (State 3), 6 miles south of park entrance; www.seedenali.com or (800) 230-7275.

Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge. 238 luxurious rooms. The Mountain View Restaurant serves three daily meals and has views of Mt. McKinley. From $99. Mile 133 on George Parks Hwy., 106 miles from park entrance; www.princesslodges.com or (800) 426-0500.

Talkeetna

Cafe Michele. Fresh, often coal ingredients spark chef-owner Michele Camera-Faurot's menu. The food and homey setting are a welcome break from hotels, Mile 13.75 on Talkeetna Spur Rd.; (907) 733-5300.

Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge. 200 contemporary rooms; views of Mt. Mckinley. Restaurant serves three daily meals. From $225. Mile 12.5 on Talkeetna Spur Rd.; www.talkeetnalodge.com or (888) 959-9590.

Palmer

Hatcher Pass Lodge. Rustic, with nine cabins, three lodge rooms; serves three daily meals for guests. From $95. Mile 17.5 on Fishhook-Willow Rd.; www.hatcherpasslodge.com or (907) 745-5897.

Wilderness park lodges

The "real" Alaska begins beyond the end of the road. Turn your Grand Tour into a grand adventure by adding a detour to wilderness lodges deep within two of Alaska's most majestic national parks.

Jeff Phillips

DENALI NATIONAL PARK

Camp Denali

The only park lodging with views of Mt. McKinley, 51-year-old Camp Denali has a staff of experts who introduce guests to the park. Lodging options are 17 rustic but comfortable ridgetop cabins with private outhouses and 15 rooms with baths in nearby North Face Lodge. Delicious meals accompanied by reports on the day's bear and caribou sightings make this our top Alaska wilderness choice. From $1,125 per person (three-night minimum), all-inclusive. www.campdenall.com or (907) 683-2290.

WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK

Kennicott Glacier Lodge

Fly in from Chitina to see the park's mountain-and glacier-packed interior, then spend a couple of days hiking, taking a guided walk on Root Glacier, and touring the hulking 1907 Kennicott Copper Mill. Historic Kennicott Glacier Lodge has 25 simple rooms (shared baths) and family-style meals. From $179 for two (from $265 with three meals.) www.kennicottlodge.com or (800) 582-5128. Round-trip charter from Chitina, (from $150) on Wrangell Mountain Air, (800) 478-1160.

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