Discover wild Alaska: the supersize grandeur of the far north—its glaciers, its mountains, its wildlife—is more accessible than ever

That night, while we sit on the deck of the Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge, the clouds finally lift long enough for us to see the mountain that the Athabascan people still call Denali. Rising majestically above the rest of the range, it embodies what Okonek was talking about.

The drive up the soon-to-be-paved road over Hatcher Pass is one of the great secrets of Alaska. Don't rush it; it's narrow in places and the drops are sheer.

Beyond the pass, we visit Independence Mine State Historical Park and take a hike--our last taste of the wild before reaching Palmer. As we head back to Anchorage, it doesn't take long to reenter the contemporary world. Gas stations appear at regular intervals, traffic thickens, a huge sign advertising car sales pops up.

Our drive into the heart of Alaska has revealed a diversity of people and complexity of geography that, like views of Mt. McKinley, can be elusive but are there to be discovered. This untamed country can get into your blood. We met one grizzled old-timer who still runs a winter trapline near Cantwell and asked him what holds him here. "You don't claim this land," he replied, "this land claims you." He was right. We'll be back, and next time we'll head beyond the end of the road.

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The main building has a false front, an ersatz log cabin applied to a World War II-era Quonset hut. Inside, the stereo plays an orchestral version of South Pacific. The gift shop is loaded with wonderful Indigenous kitsch. Owners Butch and Carol Gratias keep the coffee coming and suggest the Mother Lode Breakfast--two eggs, hash browns, and biscuits with gold miner's gravy.

Alaska Grand Tour

Our Alaska Grand Tour starts in urban Anchorage but quickly heads into spectacular country. The first part of the trip explores the coast, a region of emerald rain forests, deep fjords, rich sealife, and tidewater glaciers that crumble into icy seas. After crossing Prince William Sound on a ferry, we head north and inland toward the Arctic Circle to stand near the base of 20,320-foot Mt. McKinley. Our trip takes 10 days, but--for the true Alaska wilderness experience--we highly recommend adding a side trip to a wilderness park lodge (below, far right). For a shorter, 5-day option, see "Mini Grand Tour" (above right).

This area is mostly undeveloped wilderness. Reservations are essential; lodging, while sparse in many areas, runs the gamut from rustic to luxurious. Your best and often only dining option will be at your lodging.

The trip of a lifetime

* Spend 10 days

* Traverse 878 miles

* Explore on a backroad adventure

* Cruise past tidewater glaciers

* Hike the tundra

* Spot wild animals

* Fish for salmon

* See 20,320-foot Mt. McKinley, North America's tallest mountain

* Relive gold-rush history

* Sleep beneath the midnight sun

Essentials

Summer hours. Schedules listed here reflect seasonal hours, generally in effect from ate May into early September. Always call ahead--especially if you'll be traveling early or late in the season.