Swing into summer - building a swinging bench

Sunset's swing to build is big enough for two

The languid, back-and-forth rhythm of a swaying swing slows time on a lazy summer day. From this vantage point, you can sip a cool drink, watch neighbors stroll by, react quietly, or enjoy the hushed tones of shoulder-to-shoulder conversations. Whether it hangs from the sheltered confines of a front porch or off the branch of a backyard tree, our swing is sure to transport you away from the hurried pace of your work day.

The high-backed swing hangs securely from sturdy, 5/8-inch-diameter nylon or hemp rope that runs through the swing's arms and frame. Distinctive diamond shapes cut in the back and sides echo a detail from the Adirondack-style Sunset chair (published in July 1997). A yellow transparent stain emphasizes the grain of the wood; it is also protected with several coats of an exterior, satin-finish polyurethane. We built the swing of vertical-grain fir, but you could substitute other woods, such as redwood, cedar, or hardwoods suitable for outdoor use.

The average woodworker can build the swing in a weekend; staining and sealing will add several more days, due to drying time between coats. Most cuts can be made with a circular saw, handsaw, or saber saw, but the angled back support would be more easily cut with a table saw. A full-service lumberyard can generally do this for you.

MATERIALS

* Two 8-foot 2-by-4s

* 32 2 1/2-inch deck screws

* Countersinking bit

* Two 10-toot 2-by-4s

* 220 1 1/4-inch deck screws

* Nine 10-foot 1-by-4s

* One 10-foot 1-by-6

* 5/8-or 3/4-inch-diameter rope

COST: About $150

DIRECTIONS

The 1-by-4 boards used for the swing seat, sides, and back secure to a frame of 2-by-4s that consists of two rectangular ends and three crosspieces. You build the swing in stages: basic frame and fascia; sides and seat; back; and armrests.

FRAME

1. Each frame side is made as follows: Cut two 2-by-4 pieces 17 inches long and two 22 7/8 inches long. Butt the two shorter pieces against the ends of one long one, flush with the top of the long one. Secure with two 2 1/2-inch countersunk deck screws. Position the bottom long piece between the short ones, flush with their bottom edges but offset to the inside by the thickness of a 1-by-4 (see drawing B). Secure it with two screws into each end. Repeat to make other frame side.

2. Cut four 2-by-4 crosspieces 52 3/8 inches long. One will be the top support for the back boards. Its front face needs to be cut to an 80[degrees] angle. If you have a table saw, raise the blade to its full height and angle it at 10[degrees] off vertical. Position the fence so that the top of the blade angles toward it and space it far enough away from the blade so the cut will just break through the side of the board.

If you have a circular saw, you'll need a cutting guide. Use a protractor to set the fully extended blade at 10[degrees] off vertical. Tack the guide to one of the other crosspieces. Align and tack the crosspiece to be cut so the blade will just break through the vertical face of the 2-by-4. Cut the 80[degrees] angle the full length of the crosspiece.

3. Place the two frame sides parallel on a work surface with the offset boards on the bottom facing in. Position the front crosspiece so its ends are flush with the outside edges of the offset boards. Secure each end with four 2 1/2-inch deck screws through the crosspiece and into the side.

4. Stand the frame sides on their back edges. Position the crosspiece with the angled cut between the inside top rear corners (see B) with the angled face facing front; stop the crosspiece short of the frame sides' outside edges by the thickness of a 1-by-4. Attach with two 2 1/2-inch countersunk screws near the bottom and one 1 1/4-inch deck screw through the angled top.

5. Add the third crosspiece so its back edge is 4 inches from the inside back of the side frames. Secure each end with two 2 1/2-inch countersunk screws running through the bottom of the frame and into the crosspiece. The fourth crosspiece will be attached later.

BOARDS AND BACK CUTOUTS

6. Cut the 1-by-4s for the sides, seat, and back. For the sides, cut 12 at 15 1/2 inches long; for the seat, cut 12 at 24 inches long; and for the back, cut 12 at 27 inches long.

7. Lay out the diamond cutouts as facing triangles in four pairs of side boards and all of the back boards. For the sides, draw a line across the boards 5 inches from the top end, then draw another line 1 1/2 inches below. Starting at the edge of the board, use a combination square to connect the lines at a 45[degrees] angle, then flip the square over and draw a line connecting back to the edge of the board, creating a triangle. Use the same technique for drawing triangles on the back pieces with the midpoint 12 1/2 inches from the top end. Cut out triangle shapes with a saber saw or handsaw.

FASCIA BOARD

8. Measure a 1-by-6 fascia board to fit between the side frames. It should be 46 3/4 inches long, but check your distance and cut to size. Draw a line 1 inch from the bottom edge of the board. From the bottom edge, starting 1 1/2 inches from each end, draw a quarter circle up to join this line (see C). Cut out with saber saw.