Highway 89 - U.S. highway in Western Mountain states

And Jackson is just one stop on the stretch of U.s. 89 that runs through Wyoming, Idaho, and northern Utah. This stretch starts by plunging into the heart of Yellowstone National Park, then keeps south to edge Jackson Lake on its way through Grand Teton National Park.

Southwest of Jackson, you come to Wyoming's Star Valley-with a population of 8,000 people and 20,000 cattle. The latter help produce 16 million tons of cheese per year, and you can sample it at the Star Valley Cheese factory and restaurant in Thayne, which sells, on average, 4,000 cheese sandwiches per day during summer.

From here, Highway 89 sidles briefly into Idaho, edging the western shore of Bear Lake, which Idaho shares with Utah. The largest, busiest recreational area on the lake, Garden City Utah, has boat rentals and ample places to stop abnd get a burger, fries, and milkshake.

From Bear Lake, U.S. 89 ascends the Wasatch Range to 7,800-foot Bear Lake Overlook, then drops back down through Logan Canyon, shadowing the Logan River all the way. On a highway laden with beauty, this curving mountain road is one of the most beautiful stretches: Indeed, it is one of the most beautiful drives in the world. From here the road heads south into lush northern Utah farm country. South of Logan, the Ronald V Jensen Living His torical Farm honors the history of the mainly Mormon settlers of the region. Some of them traveled an ocean and a continent to get here. Now you understand why

DON'T MISS: Yellowstone National Park. The 3,472square-mile geologic wonderland. ID, MT WY' (307) 344-7381 information, 344-7311 lodging.

Grand Teton National Park. Park includes most of the Teton Range and part of Jackson Hole Valley. WY; (307) 739-3600.

American West Heritage Center's Ronald V. Jensen Living

Historical Farm. Wonderful living history; the center also cosponsors the Festival of the American West pageant (Jul 27-Aug 4). 4025 U.S. 89/9 1, Wellsville, UT: (435) 245-6050.

Small-town Utah

Not even U.S. 89 is immune to the mountain West's rapid growth. For a while, as it slips through greater Salt Lake City it becomes just a stoplight-ridden alternate route to Interstate 15. But at Spanish Fork, it comes back into its own, returning to its two-lane, country roots.

Through much of Utah, Highway 89 is known as the Heritage Highway. And for good reason: It will take you to a score of Utah towns, unassuming but rich in history and small-town charm.

Mt. Pleasant, for example, boasts a downtown on the National Register of Historic Places. Next comes Ephraim, whose Main Street is made up entirely of arts-and-crafts shops. In Salina, you'll want to sample the short stacks at Mom's Cafe, owned by Carolyn Jensen for nearly 30 years. You can admire the boots, saddles, and ropes at Burns Saddlery, which began in Salina in 1898 and is now run by fifth- and sixth-generation Burnses. One of them, Brayclan Shaw, thinks things are looking up along Utah's Heritage Highway: "Highway 89 is becoming more of a tourist route again--maybe now that renting an RV and traveling is something baby boomers are doing. The baby boomers are taking the scenic route."