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Good eats by the sea: on the Oregon coast, savor fish and chips, haute cuisine, and everything in between

Sunset,  May, 2004  by Bonnie Henderson

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3 Bay House. As close to perfect as any Oregon coast restaurant, from the drop-dead view of Siletz Bay to the sophisticated menu: pan-seared scallops with Oregon Chardonnay clam sauce, or rack of lamb flavored with cumin, cinnamon, and Cabernet. The wine list is outstanding. $$$; closed Mon-Tue through mid-May, then dinner daily and brunch Sun. 5911 S.W. U.S. 101; www.bayhouserestaurant.com or 541/996-3222.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

NEAR BANDON

4 The Gallery Restaurant at Bandon Dunes. The setting is excuse enough to dine here: Huge, west-facing windows show-case the sunset over the golf course at this world-class resort. Enjoy Pacific Northwest-style steak and seafood; beach fare includes crispy fried local oysters with homemade tartar sauce. $$$; breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 57744 Round Lake Dr.; www.bandondunesgolf.com, 888/345-6008, or 541/347-4380.

GOLD BEACH

5 Chives Oceanfront Dining. Two years ago, Chives was relocated from Brookings to a gracious ranch-style house overlooking the ocean and the dunes at Gold Beach. The standard menu offers more than a dozen appetizers, from pear and chevre (goat cheese) salad to local shiitake mushrooms with Madeira cream sauce, and entrees like beef fillet with Yukon potatoes and roasted garlic. Additional daily offerings are geared toward the current catch and the chef's whim. $$$; dinner Wed-Sun. 29212 U.S. 101; www.chives.net or 541/247-4121.

RELATED ARTICLE: Beach food favorites

If it's chowder or fish and chips you're after, you can't go wrong at any of these eateries (listed from north to south).

SEASIDE

6 Norma's Ocean Diner. The baconless chowder is good--thick with potatoes and clams--and the fish and chips are even better; choose the lightly breaded option, which lets the fish's flavor shine. $$; lunch and dinner daily. 20 N. Columbia St.; 503/738-4331.

PACIFIC CITY

7 Pelican Pub & Brewery. Enjoy the light, fresh, sweet homemade clam chowder as well as grand views of the ocean and Cape Kiwanda. $; breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 33180 Cape Kiwanda Dr.; www.pelicanbrewery.com or 503/965-7007.

NEWPORT

8 Quimby's Restaurant. Stellar clam chowder and unsurpassed fish and chips served with a spicy coleslaw and homemade tartar sauce. $$; lunch daily, dinner Mon-Sat, breakfast Sat-Sun. 740 W. Olive St.; www.quimbysrestaurant.com or 541/265-9919.

SOUTH BEACH

9 Lighthouse Deli & Fish Co. Your choice of more than a dozen fresh fish and shellfish options, cooked fast in a light tempura batter. $; breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 3640 S.W. U.S. 101; www.lighthousedeli.com or 541/867-6800.

GOLD BEACH

10 Indian Creek Cafe. The clam chowder at this family-friendly, burger-and-fries cafe 1/2 mile off U.S. 101 deserves its cook-off award. It's made only on Fridays, but there are often leftovers on weekends. $; breakfast and lunch daily. 94682 Jerry's Flat Rd.; 541/247-0680.

HARBOR

11 Great American Smokehouse. The fish and chips are crunchy and fresh, and the decor is maritime kitsch. $$; lunch daily, dinner Thu-Mon. 15657 U.S. 101 S.; 541/469-6903.