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The best of Berkeley: discover the world in this cosmopolitan college town - Three-Day Weekend

Sunset, Nov, 2003 by Lisa Taggart

Poet William Blake suggested seeing the world in a grain of sand. We may be a bit farsighted for that kind of focus, but it is possible to see the world in Berkeley, the free-thinking, scholarly, liberal town across the bay from San Francisco.

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Berkeley is known as a place where anything goes--after all, this is the home of California cuisine and Cal (the University of California at Berkeley), People's Park and the first Peet's coffee shop. You can find anything and everything here, from stellar restaurants and educative excursions to remote trails under redwoods. And on our tour, you can have it all in three days.

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Get area information at the Berkeley Convention & Visitors Bureau (2015 Center St.; www.visitberkeley.com, 800/847-4823, or 510/549-7040).

Friday

Founded in 1868, the Cal campus is the oldest in the UC system. Near the intersection of Telegraph Avenue and Bancroft Way, visit two of its icons: Sather Gate, one of the entries to Sproul Plaza, where any number of student protests have taken place, and 307-foot-tall Sather Tower (closed Sat-Sun; $2), also known as the Campanile. After a two-year closure for seismic retrofits, the Campanile's 200-foot-high viewing platform is now open. An elevator takes you most of the way up, and then you climb 38 stairs to the top for a memorable view.

Back to school? If you want to learn more about the 1,232-acre campus, free, information-packed tours are offered daily (10 Mon-Fri, departing from the Visitor Center at 101 University Hall, and 10 Sat and 1 Sun, departing from Sather Tower; 510/642-5215). You can also take historical walking tours around the city with the Berkeley Historical Society (call for schedule; 1931 Center; 510/848-0181).

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Smart and smarter. Cal has a lot of quality museums. One of the best is the recently remodeled 101-year-old Phoebe A. Hearst Museum of Anthropology (10-4:30 Wed-Sat, 12-4 Sun; $4; Kroeber Hall, Bancroft Way at College Ave.; 510/643-7648). It's the oldest anthropology museum in the West and has a strong collection of material on native Californians. Another good stop, especially if you're with kids, is the Lawrence Hall of Science ($8.50; Centennial Dr.; 510/642-5132). Highlights include the exhibits on earthquakes, oceans, and mathematical patterns; be sure to stop and admire the fabulous view of Berkeley and the bay.

From the Red Sea to the Blue Nile. Journey back down the hill and east on Telegraph to transport yourself to Egypt in the bamboo- and bead-bedecked Blue Nile Restaurant (2525 Telegraph Ave.; 510/540-6777). The eatery serves spicy and mild vegetables and meats with tasty soft flat bread called injere. And best of all, you can eat with your hands.

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Saturday

Get in line for solid American fare at popular Bette's Oceanview Diner (1807 Fourth St.; 510/644-3230). The 21-year-old restaurant is known for outstanding pancakes. Believe us, they're worth the wait.

Where have all the warehouses gone? The surrounding Fourth Street shopping district, originally called Ocean View, was reinvented from an industrial state to a retail haven about 15 years ago. Now it's a great place for browsing. Check out handmade Japanese papers at Miki's Paper (1801 Fourth; 510/845-9530) and futons and Japanese fabric and gifts next door at A Thousand Cranes (1803 Fourth; 510/849-0501). Sample world music on the headphones at Hear Music (1809B Fourth; 510/204-9595). Test Scandinavian furniture at Zinc Details (1842 Fourth; 510/540-8296).

Go fly. If you happen to have a kite, you can fly it nearby at Cesar Chavez Park (at the west end of University Ave.), a pretty spot of green north of a marina by the highway. Or go south (drive or use the pedestrian bridge) to Aquatic Park (enter at the foot of Addison St. or Bancroft; 510/981-6700) and walk the length of the pier or climb around the playground.

Masala lunch. At first glance, you might mistake Vik's Chaat Corner (726 Allston Way; 510/644-4412) for a garage. But the sari-clad crowds out front are the tip-off that this is an inspired restaurant, even if the decor is uninspired. Sample as many Indian small plates (chaat) as you can, because they're inexpensive and, more importantly, they are all wonderfully delicious.

Go hike. Now you may want to walk a bit. You can certainly find space to stretch your legs in 2,077-acre Tilden Regional Park. For a great view and a workout, loop 31/2 miles, climbing 1,200 feet, to the top of Wildcat Peak via the Wildcat Peak, Laurel Canyon, and Sylvan Trails (drive north on Spruce St. and follow brown signs into park on Canon Dr., or take AC bus 67 to trailhead at Tilden Environmental Education Center; 510/544-2711).

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It's a leafy world. On the way back toward campus, you can stop at the UC Botanical Garden (closed first Tue of each month; $3, free on Thu; 200 Centennial; 510/643-2755). It has a global representation of plants, from the Chinese Medicinal Herb Garden to Australasian trees to a display of California natives.

The best of Berkeley: discover the world in this cosmopolitan college town - Three-Day Weekend

Sunset, Nov, 2003 by Lisa Taggart

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