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Five great … Unexpected San Francisco eats

Sunset,  Oct, 2004  by Samantha Schoech

Birria at Chava's. This version of Mexican birria ($7.50), a thick, workingman's goat stew, is delicious enough on its own. But when homemade tortillas are added to the mix, you have something positively addictive. Served on Saturdays and Sundays only. 2839 Mission St.; 415/282-0283.

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Bocha at Taste of Himalaya. In Tibet, bocha (butter tea) would be made with yak butter, but here this traditional drink ($2) has been slightly modified. Strong black tea is mixed with milk, cow butter, and salt; it's perfect at 12,000 feet or at sea level. Closed Mon. 2420 Lombard St.; 415/674-9898.

Mango soup at Ana Mandara. This cold dessert soup ($8) is a combination of mango puree, mango "noodles," and a dollop of sorbet made from durian, a Southeast Asian fruit with a pungent odor and sweet flavor. The concoction smells as good as it tastes. 891 Beach St.; 415/771-6800.

Pupusas at La Santaneca. Pupusas are to Salvadorian cooking what tortillas are to Mexican food. Try these thick pounded-corn discs ($1.25) filled with cheese, pork, beans, or any combination, and piled high with cortido (tangy shredded cabbage). 3781 Mission; 415/648-1034.

Tea-leaf salad at Burma Superstar. This salad ($7.75) has unexpected ingredients that pack a punch: fried garlic, dried-shrimp powder, peanuts, split yellow peas, and tea leaves, which add a rich, pleasantly bitter flavor. 309 Clement St.; 415/387-2147.

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