Cliff-hanger: a noodle-armed novice learns to love rock climbing - Getting Started

Samantha Schoech

I don't look like rock-climbing material. I'm only moderately athletic, I don't love heights, and I can do exactly one push-up. But now that I've learned the basics of the sport, I know that nay noodle arms are not reasons to stay away from rock faces. As Mykael Lazzeri, an instructor at Mission Cliffs climbing gym in San Francisco, says: "If you can climb a ladder, you can climb a rock."

This is good news for anyone looking for an outdoor activity that is both physically challenging and mentally engaging. Steve Gerberding, an instructor at Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School and a 26-year climbing veteran, says, "Rock climbing is puzzle solving."

Climbing as an indoor sport

An indoor climbing gym is the best place for a novice to start. Gyms supply gear and instruction--and they have padded floors. Despite the fact that there is almost no chance of falling all the way down (known as "decking"), that padding is reassuring the first time you Spider-Man your way up a vertical surface.

The first rule of climbing is safety. So we start by learning how to put un a harness correctly and fie the rope that will be our lifeline. Minutes into my class at Mission Cliffs, I have mastered the figure-eight follow-through knot, the cornerstone of rock climbing. The next 20 minutes are devoted to belaying, in which the climber's partner uses a belay device to control the rope's slack, ensuring that the climber

doesn't get injured if she loses her grip. And soon I find myself hanging 20 feet above the floor, having just climbed a wall for the very first time.

Now that I've learned how to tie in, belay, and climb, Lazzeri sets me loose to find a buddy so we can take turns as belayer and climber.

My first partner is a young woman who has been climbing indoors for about a month. She urges me to use my leg muscles to push off the small resin holds and to trust my feet. "This takes all my strength; I am working against a standard fear of heights. When I mention it to Lazzeri, he says, "Trust your fear. It's there to help you."

My second indoor class is Joel Cortez's "Basic Technique." Cortez starts by announcing that climbing is all in the legs. He teaches us to smear (use the pressure of the ball of the foot against a flat wall to step up) and match (bring both hands or feet together on the same hold), and most importantly, to position our bodies to take advantage of momentum, balance, and weight distribution. The difference is incredible. By the end of the two-hour class, I have climbed an easy intermediate route; it wouldn't impress the guys on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, but it pleases me quite a bit.

Scaling rocks in Joshua Tree

After just two sessions inside, I want to get outside. That is why at 8 A.M. on a Saturday I find myself standing in a parking lot in Southern California's Joshua Tree National Park, which is famous for the quartz monzonite rock that draws climbers from all over the world. Here I meet 10 other students, as well as instructors Steve Gerberding and Don Reid from the Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School.

The class is an even mixture of men and women; everyone but me is in his or her 20s. Their youth discourages me until Gerberding tells us that one of his favorite climbing students, a man who takes private lessons, is 82.

We spend the morning bouldering (moving along a rock a few feet off the ground with no ropes or harnesses). Gerberding and Reid teach us to read the rock by looking at the slope, features (any bump, ripple, or dent), and texture. They tell us how to tie our shoes (tightly), how to place our feet (with confidence). They show us that dipping our hands into powdered chalk helps our fingers grip the rock. The best way to learn, Gerberding tells us, is just to climb until we're fatigued and bleeding. "I'm not guaranteeing that you'll leave here without a little blood on you," he says.

After lunch we head for the trills. Climbing a real rock face, I realize instantly, is very different from climbing in a gym. First, there are no padded floors. For the first time in my brief climbing career, I'm scared. Ledges and holds are harder to find on a real rock than on an artificial lace, and halfway up I start to doubt that I will make it to the top. But with Gerberding and the members of my group cheering me on, I complete the route. The view at the top--of Joshua Tree's boulders looking like giant peaches beneath a sharp blue sky--is spectacular. But even better is my own sense of accomplishment.

By day's end, every student has completed at least one route. We congratulate each other with high fives. As I leave the parking lot, I am exhausted and happy. I look down and notice my battle scar: a deep scratch on my ankle. I flaunt it like a medal.

Climbing schools

To locate climbing gyms, such as Mission Cliffs (2295 Harrison St., San Francisco; www. touchstoneclimbing.com or 415/550-0515), visit www.rockclimbing.com or check your yellow pages.

Each of the well regarded climbing schools listed below offers outdoor climbing instruction to beginners. Prices for a one-day group lesson begin at about $85. For lists of reputable schools and guides, contact the American Alpine Institute (see below) or the American Mountain Guides Association (www.amga.com or 303/271-0984).

American Alpine Institute. Bellingham, WA; www. mtnguide.com or (360) 671-1505.

Exum Mountain Guides. Moose, WY; www. exumguides.com or (307) 733-2297.

Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School. Joshua Tree, CA; www.rockclimbingschool. com, (800) 890-4745, or (760) 366-4745.

Moab Desert Adventures. Moab, UT; www. moabdesertadventures. com or (877) 765-6622.

Shasta Mountain Guides. Mt. Shasta, CA; www. shastaguides.com or (530) 926-3117.

Yosemite Mountaineering School and Guide Service. Yosemite National Park, CA;www.yosemite mountaineering.com or (209) 372-8344.

The gear

The variety of rock-climbing gear is staggering, but there are only a few items you need to get started. All courses and gyms will rent or lend you gear to use.

A. Helmet: Highly recommended for all outdoor climbing. It will protect you if you fall, and also protect you in the much more likely event of falling debris. From $50.

B. Chalk bag: Not necessary, but as Steve Gerberding says, "A chalk bag will help you look cool while you're stalling on the face." From $12.

C. Harness: The rule here is to find one that is comfortable and fits properly. Always try a harness on before purchasing. From $22.

D. Locking carabiner and belay device: These pieces of hardware are belaying essentials. From about $15 each.

E. Shoes: Rock-climbing shoes are an absolute must and are generally worn very snug. Having your own pair ensures the best fit. From $80.

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COPYRIGHT 2003 Gale Group