Burger city: L.A. is America's hamburger capital. Don't believe it? Take a charbroiled tour of these classic burger joints

"It stays the same," says Sherman. "What else stays the same in this town?"

Gamble mulls it over, then smiles. "I don't know. I really can't think of anything else."

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Bob's Big Boy. Fine coffee-shop-modern design. $; breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 4211 Riverside Dr., Toluca Lake; 818/843-9334.

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Father's Office. Sublime burgers. $$; dinner daily (under 21 not permitted). 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; 310/393-2337.

In-N-Out Burger. Kanner Architects' Westwood outlet is a burgertechture classic. $; lunch and dinner daily. 922 Gayley Ave., Los Angeles; 800/786-1000.

Irv's Burgers. Irv's survival is cause for celebration. $; breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon-Sat. 8289 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood; 323/650-2456.

McDonald's. Golden arches and memories. $; breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 10207 Lakewood Blvd., Downey; 562/622-9248.

Tommy's. Iconic L.A. chili-cheeseburger. $; breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 2575 W. Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; 213/389-9060.

RELATED ARTICLE: PLACES WE LOVE: Four SoCal Burger Originals

The Apple Pan. The humble Westside home of the hickory burger, an incomparable arrangement of beef, cheddar, and homemade sauce. Yeah, you'll have to wait for a seat. Yeah, it's worth it. $; lunch and dinner Tue--Sun. 10801 Pico Blvd., Los Angeles; 310/475-3585.

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The Counter. Its neatly organized burger ballot lets you choose from 10 cheeses, 26 toppings, 17 sauces--and even turkey or veggie burgers. $; lunch and dinner daily. 2901 Ocean Park Blvd., Santa Monica; 310/399-8383.

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Josie. The burger goes haute at Josie Le Balch's eponymous eatery: Buffalo sirloin is filled with Gruyere, topped with caramelized onions and foie gras, and served on a brioche bun. $$$$; dinner daily. 2424 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; 310/581-9888.

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Pie 'n Burger. Michael Osborn's classic charbroiled burgers have been pleasing Pasadenans for decades. There's a wide range of home-made pies too. $; breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 913 E. California Blvd., Pasadena; 626/795-1123.

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RELATED ARTICLE: Not in L.A.? Not a problem--grill your own great burgers at home

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The Classic Burger

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PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

MAKES: 4 servings

NOTES: If you want absolute bacteria safety, you need to cook your burgers to 160[degrees]. This recipe will keep them moist. To make cheese-burgers, about 1 minute before burgers are done, top with sliced cheese; continue cooking until cheese begins to melt.

  1 pound ground lean (7% fat) beef
  1 large egg
1/2 cup minced onion
1/4 cup fine dried bread crumbs
  1 tablespoon Worcestershire
  1 or 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
    About 1/2 teaspoon salt
    About 1/4 teaspoon pepper
  4 hamburger buns (4 in. wide), split
    About 1/4 cup mayonnaise
    About 1/4 cup ketchup or sweet-and-spicy sauce (recipe at far right)
  4 iceberg lettuce leaves, rinsed and crisped
  1 firm-ripe tomato, cored and thinly sliced
  4 thin slices red onion