A Winner by the Sea: on the Southern California coast, Del Mar is a haven for beachcombers, gardeners—and fans of fast, fast horses

We all stand for the finish: a blur of shining sable-brown or black beasts, brilliantly colored silks, and flying dirt. Frankly, it's thrilling.

"Woulda, coulda, shoulda," snorts Terwilliger as we all rip up our bets. "You hear those words all the time here."

RELATED ARTICLE: VITAL STATS

POPULATION: 4,389 (2000 census)

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MEDIAN HOME

PRICE: $945,000

AVERAGE ANNUAL PRECIPITATION: About 13 inches

HIGH TEMPERATURES: January, 67[degrees]; July, 82[degrees]

LOW TEMPERATURES: January, 45[degrees]; July, 63[degrees]

SUMMER OCEAN TEMPERATURES: 67[degrees]-75[degrees]

FIRST SETTLEMENT: Kumeyaay peoples camped here in small bands around 7000 B.C.

AMERICAN ERA BEGINS: 1885

FIRST OPENING DAY AT THE RACETRACK: July 3, 1937

RELATED ARTICLE: A day at the races

* Head first to the paddock area (pictured at left). Here trainers, owners, jockeys, and horses meet to parade past the crowds before the horses are saddled and led to the starting gate.

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* View a few races from the stands, then check out the infield area, accessible through a tunnel from the grandstand and open to all. Watch a turf race (a run on the grass) here and you'll be just a few feet from the horses as they thunder past.

* If you have a party of four, book a table--well ahead--at the unshaded Cafe del Sol, the Stretch Run Grill, or the Club-house Terrace Restaurant (858/792-4242 for all). It's more expensive, but you'll have the best seats in the house for the entire day.

RELATED ARTICLE: Doing Del Mar

Del Mar lies about 20 miles north of San Diego. From San Diego, take I-5 to Del Mar Heights Rd.; go west 1 mile to Camino Del Mar (the "coast highway") and turn right (north) to drive through the heart of town.

Attractions

Del Mar Racetrack. See "A Day at the Races," page 121. First post time 2 p.m. Sat-Mon and Wed-Thu, 4 p.m. Fri, Jul 21-Sep 8; admission from $5, ages 17 and under free (must be accompanied by a parent or guardian and are not allowed to wager). 2260 Jimmy Durante; www.delmarracing.com or 858/793-5533.

San Diego County Fair. One of the West's largest fairs. Through Jul 5, closed Mon except Jul 5; $11, parking $7. Del Mar Fairgrounds, 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd. (at Via De La Valle); www.sdfair.com or 858/755-1161.

Outdoors

City and state beaches. Four miles of beaches, accessible mainly at Powerhouse Park (near 15th St.) and Torrey Pines State Beach at the south end of town. (Note: Construction equipment at the state beach mars the scene this year.) Free.

Torrey Pines State Reserve. Main entrance south of Del Mar off N. Torrey Pines Rd. Trails, rare pines, wildflowers, spectacular views. Ask at entry kiosk for directions to the Torrey Pines Extension, a hidden section of park with greater seclusion than main reserve. 8 a.m.-sunset; $6 per vehicle, walk-ins free. www.parks.ca.gov or 858/755-2063.

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Lodging

July is high season, with the year's highest rates. Midweek is cheapest.