Smoky, hearty chowders

Rosemary Serviss

We made vegetarian chowders creamy and hearty with pureed potatoes, smoked tempeh, and sea vegetables.

IMAGINE A CHOWDER without the cream, clams, or pork and you probably wonder what's the point. But you'll stop wondering once you taste these vegan recipes. Pureed vegetables and soymilk provide real creaminess, while tempeh and sea vegetables supply the pungent, smoky flavor. The resulting chowders contain none of the cholesterol and a fraction of the saturated fat found in traditional recipes (not to mention much less sodium).

Bacon or salt pork gives many chowders their characteristic flavor. When I removed them, the New England and Manhattan recipes cried out for something smoky. Happily, Lightlife Smoky Marinated Tempeh Strips came to the rescue. You'll find this delicious vegetarian replacement for bacon in natural food stores and many supermarkets. I diced them and mixed them into both of these chowders, where their texture reminded me of minced clams.

Sea vegetables, which also add a chewy texture, are perfect in chowders normally made with seafood. Their briny flavor makes them an excellent replacement for the taste of clams, and they provide plenty of calcium and other minerals.

Of course, while a homemade vegetable stock will always produce the best-tasting chowder, you can, in a pinch, turn to an instant powder, such as Vogue Vege Base, which is organic, low in sodium, and available in most natural food stores. You can even use plain water in the following recipes. with only a slight sacrifice in richness and depth.

The Creamiest Texture

One of the simplest ways to give soup a thick, creamy texture is to puree some or all of the vegetables, especially starchy ones like potatoes. Another way to achieve a creamy chowder is to make a roux, a cooked mixture of flour and oil.

I use both a food processor and a blender for pureeing the ingredients in the following recipes. The food processor does a better job with solid or cooked ingredients, but liquid runs out the bottom when I try to puree entire batches of soup. For pureeing liquids the blender is a better option. I work in batches to prevent overflows, and don't fill the blender jar more than two-thirds full.

Sometimes the addition of a milk alternative is essential to get the right consistency. But cooking with nondairy milks requires some minor adjustments. Soymilk curdles if brought to a boil, for instance, so it should be stirred in at the end and reheated very gently, if necessary. Coconut milk, however, can be added at the beginning, brought to a boil, and simmered without any problems. As it cooks, it thickens a bit and becomes deliciously fragrant. When using soy or coconut milk in chowder, choose the full-fat product because the low-fat versions will make thin and watery chowders. Our recipes are still significantly lower in fat than traditional recipes.

All the following soups can be made in advance, refrigerated for a day or two, and reheated.

NEW ENGLAND-STYLE SEA VEGETABLE CHOWDER

Serves 4

Blended Yukon Gold potatoes and soymilk create a creamy backdrop for the flecks of smoky tempeh, mushrooms, and roasted red peppers. Buy toasted nori (thin sheets of seaweed also called sushi nori or yakinori), and add it after cooking the chowder or it will disintegrate. We used Lightlife Marinated Smoky Tempeh Strips when testing this recipe and the following one.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 ounces marinated smoked tempeh
strips, cut into 1/4-inch dice
4 ounces white button mushrooms,
ends trimmed and Sliced thin
(about 2 cups)
1 medium onion, diced
3 cups vegetable stock or water
2 large Yukon Gold potatoes (about 1
pound), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch
dice
1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste
1 large red bell pepper, roasted, peeled,
seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
(see note below)
1 cup full-fat soymilk
2 sheets toasted nori, cut into 1 by
1/4-inch strips

1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 4-quart pot. Add tempeh and mushrooms and saute over medium heat until mushrooms soften and give up their liquid, about 5 minutes, adding a tablespoon of water if mixture begins to stick. Remove tempeh and mushrooms from pot and set aside.

2. Heat remaining oil in empty pot. Add onion and saute over medium heat until soft, about 3 minutes. Add stock, potatoes, and salt. Bring to boil, cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer mixture to blender in batches and puree until smooth.

3. Return pureed mixture to pot and stir in reserved mushroom-tempeh mixture and roasted red pepper. Stir in soymilk and heat gently until hot. Do not boil.

4. Remove pot from heat and stir in nori strips. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Note: Feel free to use purchased roasted red peppers here. Otherwise, place a whole pepper on a baking sheet and roast it under the broiler, turning often, until the skin blackens. Place the pepper in a covered bowl for 10 minutes. When the pepper is cool enough to handle, peel the skin with your fingers and discard the core and seeds.

PER SERVING: 278 calories, 10g protein, 10g fat, 40g carbohydrates, 6g fiber, 310mg sodium, 83% vitamin A, 147% vitamin C, 6% calcium

MANHATTAN-STYLE SEA VEGETABLE CHOWDER

Serves 4

While chowder in New England means milk or cream, Manhattan-style clam chowder is traditionally made with tomatoes but no dairy. A single strip of kombu (also called kelp) adds a hint of the sea. You can discard it after it's cooked, but I prefer to dice it and stir it back into the chowder for visual and textural appeal. Add salt to taste only if your brand of organic tomatoes is unsalted.

1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 ounces marinated smoked temper
strips, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 medium onion, diced
1 medium carrot, diced
2 medium celery stalks, diced
1/2 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and
diced
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 1/2 cups vegetable stock or water
1 28-ounce can organic ground
tomatoes
4 medium red potatoes (about 1/2 pound),
scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 strip kombu, rinsed
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
Ground black pepper
Minced fresh parsley leaves for
garnish (optional)

1. Heat oil in 4-quart pot. Add tempeh, onion, carrot, celery, green pepper, and garlic and saute over medium heat, stirring often, until vegetables soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in all remaining ingredients except parsley Bring to boil, cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

2. Remove kombu strip from pot. Dice kombu and return it to pot. Discard bay leaf.

3. Ladle soup into bowls and sprinkle each serving with parsley; if desired. Serve immediately

PER SERVING: 270 calories, 10g protein, 7g fat, 45g carbohydrates; 6g fiber, 864mg sodium, 158% vitamin A, 122% vitamin C, 10% calcium

POTATO-LEEK CHOWDER WITH ROASTED GARLIC

Serves 4 to 6

Although you can use red-skinned or Yukon Gold potatoes in this recipe, I chose russets for their higher starch content. Roasted garlic is an unexpected ingredient in this chowder and accounts for much of the flavor. To roast garlic, keep the head intact, but remove as much of the outer skin as possible. Brush the head lightly with extra-virgin olive oil, wrap it in foil, and roast in a preheated 375-degree oven until the cloves are soft, about 30 minutes.

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
3 medium leeks (white and light green
parts only), chopped
1 medium onion, diced
2 medium celery stalks, diced
4 cups vegetable stock or water
2 medium russet potatoes (about
1 pound), peeled and cut into
1/2-inch dice
1 large bay leaf
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 small head garlic, roasted (see note
above)
1 cup full-fat soymilk
4 scallions (green parts only), sliced thin

1. Heat oil in 4-quart pot. Add leeks, onion, and celery and saute over medium heat until soft, about 5 minutes.

2. Add stock, potatoes, bay leaf, salt, and pepper. Bring to boil, cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Discard the bay leaf.

3. With slotted spoon, transfer 3 cups of vegetables to workbowl of food processor, along with roasted garlic cloves that have been squeezed out of their skins. Puree vegetables until smooth.

4. Stir pureed vegetables back into pot. Stir in soymilk and reheat gently if necessary, but do not boil. Ladle into bowls and sprinkle each serving with scallion greens. Serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 356 calories, 9g protein, 5g fat, 72g carbohydrates, 9g fiber, 778mg sodium 83% vitamin A, 84% vitamin C, 20% calcium

SOUTHWESTERN CORN CHOWDER

Serves 4

This chowder starts with a roux made with masa harina, a flour ground from dried corn kernels that have been soaked in a lime solution. The chipotle chile (a dried, smoked jalapeno pepper) provides a smoky undercurrent as well as a little heat. Look for both in the international aisles of supermarkets, natural food stores, or Latino markets. If you prefer some smoky flavor without the heat, add the chipotle whole and remove it at the end of the cooking time.

3 cups fresh corn kernels (4 to 5 ears,
cobs reserved)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 medium onion
1/2 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and
 cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/2 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and
 cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/4 cup masa harina
4 cups vegetable stock or water
4 medium red potatoes (about
1/2 pound), scrubbed and cut into
1/4-inch dice
1 dried chipotle chile, seeded and
snipped into tiny bits
1 teaspoon mild chili powder
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
leaves

1. Puree 1 1/2 cups of corn in workbowl of food processor. Set aside. 2. Heat oil in 4-quart pot. Add cumin and let sizzle for 15 seconds. Add onion and peppers and saute over medium heat until soft, about 3 minutes.

3. Sprinkle masa harina over mixture and stir until smooth. Stir in pureed corn. Gradually add stock, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Add potatoes, chipotle chile, chili powder, oregano, salt, and corn cobs. Bring to boil, cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until potatoes are tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove and discard cobs.

4. Stir in remaining 1 1/2 cups of corn and cook an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Corn should remain slightly crunchy. Add more salt if necessary. Stir in cilantro.

Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 303 calories, 7g protein, 9g fat, 55g carbohydrates, 7g fiber, 602mg sodium, 93% vitamin A, 79% vitamin C, 5% calcium

THAI SWEET-POTATO CHOWDER

Serves 6

Three textures are at play in this unusual chowder. The sweet potatoes are soft and creamy, the baked tofu is chewy, and the snow peas provide a little crunch. Baked tofu is sold in many flavors such as barbeque, herb, and Thai. Avoid light coconut milk, which is watered down and will produce disappointing results.

2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and
cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 large stalk lemon grass, outer layer
discarded, cut into 2-inch lengths
1-1 1/2 teaspoons Thai red curry paste (see
note below)
3 cups vegetable stock or water
1 14-ounce can coconut milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 ounces Thai-style or plain baked
tofu, cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 tablespoons arrowroot dissolved in
2 tablespoons water
3 ounces snow peas, cut lengthwise
into thin strips (about 1 cup)

1. Combine sweet potatoes, lemon grass, red curry paste, stock, coconut milk, and salt in 4-quart pot. Stir as you bring to boil over medium-high heat. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until sweet potatoes are tender, about 8 minutes. Turn off heat and discard lemon grass,

2. With slotted spoon, transfer 2 cups sweet potatoes to workbowl of food processor and puree until smooth. Stir pureed potatoes back into pot, along with baked tofu, and reheat over medium flame.

3. Add arrowroot mixture to pot, stirring constantly until thickened, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn off heat and stir in snow peas. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.

Note: Thai red curry paste is a mixture of red chile peppers, onion, garlic, spices, and salt. You'll find it in natural and gourmet food stores, and in ethnic markets. We like this soup spicy and add the full 1 1/2 teaspoons, but you may adjust the amount to suit your personal preference.

PER SERVING: 309 calories, 7g protein 17g fat, 35g carbohydrates, 5.2g fiber, 221mg sodium, 201% vitamin A, 49% vitamin C, 8% calcium

Rosemary Serviss is placement director at The Natural Gourmet Cookery School in New York City.

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