The best organic? Red wines: we tasted two dozen organically made wines and found several worth celebrating - Natural kitchen: cooking and nutrition tips

SPECIAL GATHERINGS OFTEN involve raising a glass of wine to wish everyone good health. You can make those wishes more meaningful by serving organic wines, which are produced without potentially harmful chemicals.

Conventional winemakers may use any of 17 approved pesticides and herbicides on their grapes, which aren't washed before processing. If they wish, they can also add chemicals to change the flavor and acidity of their wines. Organic winemakers instead use beneficial insects and birds for pest control, and employ techniques like blending grapes picked at different stages of ripeness to finesse flavor.

For a wine to be called organic, both the grapes and the winemaking process must be certified according to federal guidelines, and no sulfites may be added to preserve the wine. (A small amount of sulfites exists in all wine; it's a byproduct of fermentation.) Winemakers who add natural sulfites but otherwise adhere to organic standards may use the term "made from organically grown grapes" on their labels.

We learned that organic practices can produce delicious results when we joined Cat Silirie, wine director of No. 9 Park restaurant in Boston, and her staff for a blind taste test. (A member of the national group Chefs Collaborative, No. 9 Park is committed to promoting sustainable cuisine.) The 24 California red wines we sampled ranged from soft, mellow Merlots to full-bodied, tannic (puckery and slightly astringent) Cabernet Sauvignons. These are our six favorites.

WINE                               TASTERS' COMMENTS

Bonterra Merlot 1999               Smooth body, with a spicy taste.
(organically grown)                Smoky wood and caramel notes ($16;
                                   no phone number available;
                                   www.bonterra.com).
Carmenet Cabernet Franc            Full-bodied, with hints of roasted
Moon Mountain Estate Bottled       chiles, concentrated figs, and other
1998 (organically grown)           dried fruit ($30; 707-996-5870;
                                   www.chalonewinegroup.com).
Frey Syrah 2001 (organic)          Smooth and light-bodied, with bright
                                   juicy fruit flavors and vanilla and
                                   spice notes ($11.25; 800-760-3739;
                                   www.freywine.com).
Frog's Leap Cabernet Sauvi-        Complex aroma and concentrated
gnon Napa Valley 1999 (organi-     flavor, with green pepper, cedar,
cally grown, but not certified)    and eucalyptus notes ($35; 800-959-
                                   4704; www.frogsleap.com).
Lolonis Carignane Redwood          Light-bodied and luscious, with
Valley, no vintage (organically    hints of cherries, berries, honey,
grown)                             and chocolate ($14; 925-938-8066;
                                   www.lolonis.com).
Topolos Piner Heights 1999         Lively and moderately tannic, with
Zinfandel (organically grown)      a lush fruit flavor, velvety tex-
                                   ture, and smooth finish ($18;
                                   707-887-1139; www.topolos.com).

COPYRIGHT 2002 Weider Publications
COPYRIGHT 2002 Gale Group