Wabi sabi: this Japanese philosophy finds beauty in imperfection. In the produce world, it means the oddest specimens are often the best

I was raised at my father's apron strings in the farmlands of western Pennsylvania. The owner of a small grocery store, he was a terrific cook--and a good backyard gardener, too, who fed us well on homegrown organic produce, Created with heirloom seeds supplied by friends and neighbors, his garden often yielded fruits and vegetables that were irregular, misshapen, and downright odd, but usually delicious and intensely flavorful--in fact the weirdest-looking ones often tasted the best.

The experience taught me to look beyond the surface and to value the diversity of nature's offerings. The Japanese call it wabi-sabi, an aesthetic that finds beauty in imperfection, impermanence, and authenticity. In my father's garden--and on our plates--there was no place for pesticides, genetic modification, or uniformity. There was only the invitation to eat and enjoy.

These days, too many of us are disconnected from the sources of our food. Mass production has sacrificed flavor and variety to provide predictably handsome produce year-round. Grocery stores are filled with foods that emphasize convenience and homogeneity.

But those peculiar, wonderful, flavorful fruits and veggies are still out there--you just have to find them. Bypass the mega-mart; seek out your local farmers market or roadside stand instead. Stick with what's seasonal, local, and fresh; insist on it, in fact. Ask questions, use your senses--taste, smell, touch. Better yet, seek out heirloom seeds and grow your own.

You'll be setting aside your expectations of what fruits and vegetables are supposed to look like. When it comes to potatoes, for example, think beyond beige; imagine the possibilities of golden-fleshed Bintjes, rose-tinted Cranberry Reds, or Purple Peruvians. Tomatoes present a dizzying variety of colors: Green Zebras and Tasty Evergreens retain their verdant skins and flesh even when fully ripe; Rippled Zapotecs are gorgeously fluted; Marvel Stripes and Cherokee Purples display a rainbow array of hues. And forget about cauliflower only being white; these cabbages can be purple, pink, yellow, and even chartreuse!

Anything that's organically grown will almost always vary in color, size, and shape from the conventionally farmed produce common in supermarkets. Once you learn to appreciate these beautiful-on-the-inside fruits and vegetables, you'll boost not only the flavor on your plate but possibly your health as well. After all, the freshest produce is usually highest in nutrients--and since these offbeat varieties aren't grown for shelf life, they're almost always locally, and recently, harvested. What they're not is genetically modified; quite the opposite, they're food as our ancestors knew it--as my father knew it.

Be a smart buyer

How do you select the best heirloom, organic, or homegrown fruits and veggies?

Be brave. Marketers program us into thinking food should look perfect. Don't be afraid to buy produce that's odd-looking.

Be curious. Spend a few extra dollars on new. unusual-looking fruits and vegetables. It's a worthy investment with delicious opportunity. How will you know until you try it?

Be sensual. Seek out genuine aromas--if it smells like a mouthwatering tomato, it probably tastes like one, too. Never hesitate to ask for a sample of any fruit or vegetable that can be eaten raw.

Be touchy-feely. With some fruits and vegetables, just holding them in your hand and feeling for weightiness and ripeness can be telling.

Be flexible. If produce is visually unappetizing, consider alternatives to fresh eating: Cook, juice, can, freeze, or dry the item. Or cut away objectionable sections and enjoy what's left.