Bernice Notenboom: modern nomad

ADVENTURER AND TRAVEL GUIDE Bernice Notenboom used to work 60 hours a week for one of the world's leading software corporations. In 1995, at the age of 31, she abandoned the stress of her corporate career to create Moki Treks, a travel company that aims to raise awareness of indigenous cultures. Moki Treks began in the Southwest, employing Native Americans as travel guides and cultural emissaries, and has since expanded to include the aboriginal culture of Australia. Eventually, Notenboom hopes to bring travelers to endangered communities around the world--whether that entails trekking on camels with desert nomads or horseback riding with the reindeer herders of Mongolia.

NATIVE WISDOM

One of the main reasons I started Moki Treks was to make sure native cultures benefited from tourism. When we trek down Canyon de Chelly [in Arizona], we hire an entire Navajo family to work with us. They do everything from guiding us to transporting water to demonstrating weaving and pottery. I also want to make sure tourists see and appreciate endangered native cultures, such as the world's nomads, to protect these cultures from persecution and extinction.

FAVORITE CULTURE

I now find the nomadic tribes the most interesting of all indigenous cultures, probably because they are the most endangered. It's a challenge to bring travelers to these tribes because it requires a different way of doing things. But I think people will find it a relief to get away from credit cards, mortgages, and cellphones. I find it inspiring to be in a culture that doesn't really need possessions for survival or comfort, but definitely needs to be in close relationship with the land, the animals, and the weather in order to survive.

EATING ON THE ROAD

When I'm home I buy all organic foods and eat a well-balanced diet. But when I'm traveling with the nomads, I eat whatever is offered. With Mongolian reindeer herders, that's usually mutton or old horse, roots pulled out of the ground, and a lot of homemade vodka.

NOMADIC BEAUTY

I barely use any body products, except almond oil on my skin. I don't use makeup. I don't even use hair conditioner. I just go to a good hairdresser and get a great cut twice a year. When traveling, I often use whatever I find in someone else's bathroom cabinet.

PACKING FOR ADVENTURE

If go to cold regions, I bring a down jacket, wool clothing, and thermals. And I always pack something nice--you never know when you'll get a spontaneous invitation to dine with a tribal king or a surprise upgrade on a flight.

THE JOURNEY HOME

I'm about to move to Fernie, a ski resort in southeastern British Columbia. I used to think I was a perfect nomad. As an immigrant to the U.S. [from The Netherlands], I never had much or needed much; it all fit in one suitcase. But I'm always picking up mementos, and then I want a spot for them. In fact, the older I get and the more I travel, the more I want a nice place to come home to.

BERNICE'S ADVICE FOR WOMEN TRAVELING ALONE

(1) Bond immediately with the children you meet. Bring gifts for them. This allows you to reach the heart and soul of the entire family.

(2) If you feel uncomfortable bringing material things from the Western world, buy local, useful presents. In Ethiopia, I bought a chicken and a goat for the family I stayed with.

(3) Always dress conservatively, and take along a big silk shawl. You can use it for sun and dust protection, but also in situations that require modesty, such as covering your shoulders in Buddhist temples.

(4) In remote areas where you do not speak the language, consider hiring a translator/ guide. In Afghanistan I got much closer to a nomadic tribe because we were able to communicate through a translator. Remember, the people you visit are usually just as interested in you as you are in them

(5) To avoid sexual harassment, wear a wedding ring even if you are not married.

COPYRIGHT 2005 Weider Publications
COPYRIGHT 2005 Gale Group