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Fresh face forward: look springtime radiant with cleansers that clarify, condition, and invigorate
Natural Health, April, 2005
No MATTER what your skin type--oily, dry, combination, or sensitive--cleansing morning and night is an essential part of caring for your complexion. Morning cleansing reinvigorates your face for the day ahead. But a repeat performance before bed is even more important: It removes the day's buildup of dirt and bacteria, as well as any makeup. "Your skin needs a chance to breathe overnight for cells to regenerate," says Ava Shamban, M.D., a dermatologist in Santa Monica, Calif. But twice a day is plenty--cleansing too often can strip skin of its natural oils.
Use tepid water, since water that's too hot can dry out the skin. Rinse the cleanser off with your hands, then pat dry with a towel--rough washcloths can be irritating. And pick a cleanser that's right for your skin.
What's your type?
THE WRONG SKIN-CARE REGIMEN (or the lack of one) leads to problems like dry patches, irritation, ache, and accelerated aging, so choose wisely. If your skin is on the oily side, don't use supercreamy cleansers; if your complexion is parched, acidic products will only dry it out more. No matter what your skin type, avoid the temptation to reach for that good old bar of soap--it can be drying and often leaves behind a film that can contribute to clogged pores. "The skin on your face is thinner and more delicate than on the rest of your body; that's why it requires care specific to your skin type," says Kenneth Mark, M.D., a dermatologist in Manhattan and East Hampton, N.Y. To determine the best cleanser for your particular complexion, follow this guide.
Dry
SKIN THAT TENDS to be dry not only feels rough, tight, and itchy, but also reflects light poorly, which leaves the complexion looking dull. The key is to avoid cleansers loaded with harsh detergents. To restore radiance and infuse skin with moisture, use a cleansing cream or lotion with hydrating agents like vitamin E and aloe; these deposit a layer of natural oil that helps lubricate the skin. Best bets: Zia Moisturizing Cleanser ($4.95; zianatural.com) is a milky, detergent-free formula with natural hydrating ingredients, such as aloe vera gel, algae, and soybean oil. The dye-, sulfate-, and fragrance-free Collective Wellbeing Cleansing Gel ($9; 800-896-4649) is loaded with humectants like glycerin and sea kelp to help bind water to thirsty skin.
oily
ALL SKIN NEEDS SOME OIL--in moderation. But too much oil, the result of overactive sebaceous glands, can contribute to clogged pores. To control oil, opt for a mild, foaming, soap-free cleanser with the pore declogger salicylic acid (a natural substance derived from the bark of a willow tree). "Salicylic acid exfoliates the dead skin that can clog pores; it's also an anti-inflammatory that can help calm redness and irritation," says Shamban. Two to try: Aveeno Clear Complexion Foaming Cleanser ($7; at drugstores) combines salicylic acid with soy, which contains fatty acids that restore softness to skin. Olay Daily Facials Clarity Foaming Cleanser ($7; at drugstores) adds aloe, sage, and green tea to help calm redness and inflammation.
combination
IN THIS SKIN TYPE, "sebaceous glands are larger and more active in an area known as the T-zone (nose, forehead, and chin), triggering oiliness there, and less active around the cheeks, which are dry," explains Shamban. To balance both conditions, stick with a nondrying foaming or gel cleanser made specifically for combination skin. Two we recommend: Clarins Cleansing Milk ($23.50; gloss.com), a botanical-based milky cleanser, has hawthorn and orris (from the his family) to tone the skin, and vitamins A and E to restore natural moisture levels. Good Skin Perfect Balance Gel Cleanser ($10.50; kohls.com) is made with oat extract to help absorb oil, and extracts of sunflower, cucumber, and barley to restore moisture to dry spots.
sensitive
"SENSITIVE SKIN IS usually characterized by a thin epidermis and blood vessels close to the skin's surface," says Mark; it can be easily irritated by artificial ingredients and even hot water. To soothe sensitive skin, look for a gentle, nonirritating cleanser without fragrances, dyes, or harsh exfoliating grains (which can only aggravate this complexion type). A couple of good ones: Soap- and fragrance-free Eucerin Redness Relief Soothing Cleanser ($9; at drugstores) is formulated with naturally calming licorice root. Aubrey Organics Natural Herbal Facial Cleanser ($6.50; aubreyorganics.com) is made with aloe and oatmeal to help eliminate redness and blotchiness.
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