Natural Health: The Ultimate Scrambled Tofu

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The Ultimate Scrambled Tofu

Dana Jacobi

THE RIGHT TOFU AND COOKING TECHNIQUE CREATE A QUICK, SATISFYING BREAKFAST DISH.

NOTHING BEATS A PLATE of scrambled eggs for a quick, satisfying meal. Scrambled tofu can be equally comforting and just as appealing--or it can be dry and unappetizing. Since I love scrambled eggs but avoid eating them, my goal was to produce a basic scrambled tofu recipe that was just as tender and moist as eggs, then improvise some delicious variations. To arrive at the ideal scramble, I experimented with various tofu types and textures, ways to prepare the tofu for scrambling, kinds of pans, and a variety of seasonings. I found there are a few easy tricks to making it the right way.

CHOOSING THE TOFU Tofu comes in two "families" and three textures. The two families are silken and momengoshi. Silken tofu resembles custard. It is also called kinugoshi or Japanese-style bean curd. Momengoshi, which is also known as cotton or Chinese-style bean curd, is springy in texture--even chewy when it is particularly firm. I call this kind "regular" or "cake-style" tofu because it is rarely labeled by type. Both regular and silken tofu come in soft, firm, and extra-firm densities. To confuse matters, these textures are not consistent from one manufacturer to another. One producer's firm tofu may turn out to be harder than the extra-firm made by someone else. Also, silken tofu of a given density is not comparable to regular tofu of the same density. The silken one will always be softer because it contains more water.

The best way to sort out the question of tofu textures is to do a onetime tofu tasting. Sample several of the readily available brands of tofu in your area, noting how they differ in texture and taste. What can be confusing when expressed in words becomes instantly clear. You will know in one bite which tofu you like the best. (Keep notes when testing that will later guide you when shopping for specific recipes.)

My first decision was easy. Silken tofu is unsuitable for scrambling. Even extra-firm silken tofu disintegrates as you chew it, turning into an unpleasant mush. It's much better suited for recipes where it will be pureed, like cheesecake, or served in liquid, like miso soup.

Among regular tofus, the two firmer densities scramble well. If you like a scramble resembling softly cooked eggs, use firm tofu. In any case, pick tofu with a fresh, clean flavor. Save any that is "beany" to use in an assertively seasoned stir-fry, casserole, or dip.

PREPARING AND COOKING THE TOFU Breaking up the tofu right from the package leaves it too wet. Out of curiosity, I tried pressing the liquid out of the tofu and freezing it before scrambling it. Neither method worked. The pressed tofu was rubbery and the frozen tofu was tough.

Through trial and error, I found a way to eliminate just the right amount of moisture. The cake should be broken into eight pieces, each of which is squeezed dry with your hands and crumbled. This method also makes the uncooked bean curd look like scrambled eggs. A 10-inch, or medium, nonstick skillet works best for scrambles containing one pound of tofu. The coating prevents sticking, even when you use little or no oil, and keeps the tofu from browning.

The goal is to cook the tofu until it releases some moisture and to serve it before it cools and hardens. Use a light hand when greasing the pan: A bit of oil adds a creamy quality, but too much oil will make the scramble slippery when you eat it. Canola is a good oil to use for these recipes because of its blandness. You could use olive oil, but its flavor may compete with the other ingredients.

Finely chopped onion and scallion give the scramble texture as well as flavor. Minute amounts of soy sauce and turmeric add color, along with a creamy quality that is a bit like egg yolk. To help the turmeric and soy sauce blend evenly, add them to the pan first, then immediately stir in the tofu and keep stirring it. Saute the onion to soften it slightly; don't let it color or it will end up tasting burnt.

I added just enough seasoning to the Basic Tofu Scramble to make it look like eggs. Add a bit more soy sauce if you want more flavor, or stir in a cup of sauteed chopped vegetables. Avoid vegetables that release moisture, like tomatoes and grated zucchini, in favor of broccoli, peppers, corn, leeks, and celery. Mushrooms work well if you cook off their liquid before adding the tofu. Soy cheese adds great flavor and texture. Have it shredded and ready to add to the pan once the tofu is cooked.

The Basic Tofu Scramble is fast and simple. If unadorned tofu is too bland for you but you like its nutritional virtues, sample the Breakfast Burrito and the other scrambles I have put together.

BASIC TOFU SCRAMBLE

SERVES 2

You may use firm or extra-firm cake-style, or regular, tofu. Firm tofu makes a slightly moister scramble, which is closer in consistency to scrambled eggs. Depending on the size of each portion, this recipe may make enough for three.

16 ounces extra-firm or firm regular tofu
1 teaspoon canola oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
2 scallions, white part only, finely
chopped
1/8 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon soy sauce or tamari
Salt and ground black pepper

1. With your hands, break cake of tofu into 8 pieces. Working with one piece at a time, place tofu at base of fingers in one hand. Then place other hand over tofu as if you were clapping. Gently but firmly press tofu. (It helps to curl your thumbs and fingers, clasping your hands together.) Squeeze until tofu is about half its original thickness. About half its moisture should have been removed. Loosely crumble tofu with fingers into bowl; it should look slightly like curds. Repeat pressing and crumbling process with other pieces.

2. Heat oil in medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute until slightly translucent, about 1 minute. Stir in scallions, turmeric, and soy sauce and cook until combined, about 20 seconds. Add tofu and stir-cook until evenly colored and still slightly moist, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. (Do not let tofu dry out or overcook.) Season with salt and pepper to taste. Turn scramble out onto plates and serve immediately.

PER SERVING : 126 calories, 17 g protein, 5 g fat, 5 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 826 mg sodium, 1% vitamin A, 6% vitamin C, 8% calcium

SPINACH AND MUSHROOM SCRAMBLE IN BAKED POTATO SHELLS

SERVES 4

Stuffing the scramble into hollowed-out baked potato shells stretches a pound of scrambled tofu to feed four. This dish makes an especially attractive brunch entree.

2 large russet or baking potatoes (at
least 10 ounces each)
16 ounces extra-firm or firm regular tofu
2 teaspoons olive oil
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1 small leek, white part only, finely
chopped
1/8 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon soy sauce or tamari
Salt and ground black pepper
4 ounces white mushrooms, stemmed
and thinly sliced
1/2 package (5 ounces) defrosted frozen
chopped spinach, squeezed dry with
hands

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Bake potatoes until they can be easily pierced with skewer, about 1 hour. Halve potatoes lengthwise. Scoop out each half, leaving 1/2 inch of flesh inside each half. (Reserve flesh for another use.) Place potato shells on small baking sheet and keep warm in 200-degree oven.

2. With your hands, break cake of tofu into 8 pieces. Working with one piece at a time, place tofu at base of fingers in one hand. Then place other hand over tofu as if you were clapping. Gently but firmly press tofu. (It helps to curl your thumbs and fingers, clasping your hands together.) Squeeze until tofu is about half its original thickness. About half its moisture should have been removed. Loosely crumble tofu with fingers into bowl; it should look slightly like curds. Repeat pressing and crumbling process with other pieces.

3. Heat 1 teaspoon oil in medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute until slightly translucent, about I minute. Stir in leek, turmeric, and soy sauce and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tofu and stir-cook until evenly colored and still slightly moist, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. (Do not let tofu dry out or overcook.) Season with salt and pepper to taste. Turn scramble into bowl and set aside.

4. Wipe out skillet with paper towel. Replace skillet over medium-high heat. Add remaining teaspoon oil and mushrooms. Saute mushrooms until they shed their liquid, about 4 minutes. Add spinach, breaking it up with wooden spoon. Cook, stirring occasionally, until spinach has dried out, 2 to 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, add scrambled tofu to spinach mixture and cook until it is reheated. Adjust seasonings.

5. Fill potato shells with scrambled tofu mixture and serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 271 calories, 14 g protein, 4 g fat, 48 g carbohydrates, 6 g fiber, 433 mg sodium, 28% vitamin A, 56% vitamin C, 11% calcium

BREAKFAST BURRITO

SERVES 2

Draining the salsa is an essential step. If the salsa is at all watery, it will make the burritos soggy. The recipe makes four burritos, enough [or two as a substantial breakfast or brunch.

1/2 cup salsa
4 large flour tortillas
16 ounces extra-firm or firm regular tofu
1 teaspoon canola oil
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1 jalapeno pepper, stemmed, seeded,
and finely chopped
1/8 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon soy sauce or tamari
1/4 cup shredded jalapeno jack soy cheese
Salt
4 teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Place salsa in mesh strainer and set aside to drain for at least 10 minutes.

2. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Wrap tortillas in foil and place in oven to warm. (This can also be done in toaster oven or, if you wish, just warm tortillas one at a time in dry skillet.)

3. With your hands, break cake of tofu into 8 pieces. Working with one piece at a time, place tofu at base of fingers in one hand. Then place other hand over tofu as if you were clapping. Gently but firmly press tofu. (It helps to curl your thumbs and fingers, clasping your hands together.) Squeeze until tofu is about half its original thickness. About half its moisture should have been removed. Loosely crumble tofu with fingers into bowl; it should look slightly like curds. Repeat pressing and crumbling process with other pieces.

4. Heat oil in medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute until slightly translucent, about 1 minute. Stir in jalapeno, turmeric, and soy sauce and cook until combined, about 20 seconds. Add tofu and stir-cook until evenly colored and still slightly moist, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. (Do not let tofu dry out or overcook.) Stir in cheese and season with salt to taste.

5. Lay tortillas on flat work surface. Divide scrambled tofu among tortillas, arranging it down center of each one. Spoon some salsa over each pile of tofu. Sprinkle each with 1 teaspoon cilantro. Fold sides of tortillas over filling and serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 384 calories, 27 g protein, 14 g fat, 40 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 993 mg sodium, 4% vitamin A, 115% vitamin C, 11% calcium

AMBROSIAL TOFU SCRAMBLE

SERVES 3

Curry-flavored scrambled tofu works well with a basic orange and coconut fruit salad. Again, this dish is a bit fancier and better for brunch than for a quick weekday breakfast. For fruit salad, use a mixture of strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, mangoes, kiwis, and/or peaches.

1 large navel orange, peeled and cut
crosswise into 6 slices
2 cups fruit, peeled and chopped as
necessary (see note above)
2 tablespoons unsweetened shredded
coconut
16 ounces extra-firm or firm regular tofu
1 teaspoon canola oil
1 teaspoon curry powder
1/4 teaspoon soy sauce or tamari
Salt and ground black pepper
3 sprigs fresh mint

1. Divide orange slices among 3 plates, placing slices in center. Combine sliced or chopped fruits with coconut and set aside.

3. Heat oil in medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add curry and soy sauce and cook until combined, about 20 seconds. Add tofu and stir-cook until evenly colored and still slightly moist, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. (Do not let tofu dry out or overcook.) Season with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Spoon scramble along both sides of orange slices. Mound fruit salad on orange slices and garnish with mint. Serve immediately.

PER SERVING: (165 calories, 2 g protein, 8 g fat, 24 g carbohydrates, 7 g fiber, 380 mg sodium, 4% vitamin A, 160% vitamin C, 5% calcium

Like Bacon With Your Eggs?

MEATLESS BACON AND SAUSAGE areas perfect with a tofu scramble as the real ones are with scrambled eggs. I tasted four widely available vegan products (see note). Except for the tempeh strips, these heat-and-eat products use texturized soy protein concentrate and isolated soy protein as their main ingredients. All have the big, hearty flavors and brown-from-the-pan look that make bacon, sausage patties, and breakfast links appealing, and fill the kitchen with a familiar aroma and sizzle.

I cooked each product three ways: in oil, with cooking spray, and in a dry, nonstick pan. With 1 to 2 teaspoons of canola oil, I got crisp bacon and beautifully browned sausages. With a sprayed or dry pan, all the products scorched in spots, barely colored in others, and lacked the desired crispness and succulence. It's essential to serve all these breakfast "meats" straight from the pan. Here's the rundown:

GIMME LEAN! REAL SAUSAGE TASTE, LIGHTLIFE FOODS, INC. 14 oz. (7 servings), $2.99, fat-free. Beige and nubbly like bulk sausage. Cut in 1/2-inch slices, these brown just like sausage patties, and have the same peppery sage flavor. When hot, they have the moist, chewy texture of actual sausage. Serve 'em to anyone and watch their surprise.

CANADIAN VEGGIE BACON, YVES VEGGIE CUISINE 6 oz. (9 slices), $2.39, fat-free. Slices have the smoky taste and rosy color of Canadian bacon. From the pan, they are crisp and tender, but turn rubbery with a bitter aftertaste at room temperature. A winner when eaten quickly.

SMOKY TEMPEH STRIPS (FAKIN' BACON), LIGHTLIFE FOODS, INC. 6 OZ., (8 slices, though package says 9), $1.99, 2.5 g fat per 2 strips. These thin tempeh slices are marinated in a smoky barbecue sauce. They get somewhat crisp when cooked. Though they don't taste like bacon, their flavor complements tofu scrambles nicely. Great for many other dishes, like hash and BLT sandwiches.

LIGHT BREAKFAST LINKS, LIGHTLIFE FOODS, INC. 10 oz., (8 links), $2.99, 3 g fat per link. These pale, doughy sausage fingers firm up as they brown. They look great when cooked, but have a harsh, bitter taste. (More salt would help.) Succulent when hot, they turn to mush when cold. Open package the long way to get links out in one piece.

NOTE: Vegetarian does not mean vegan. It is essential to read labels if you want to avoid ingredients like egg whites, whey, or lactose.

Dana Jacobi's weekly column, "Something Different," appears in newspapers all over the United States. Her latest cookbook is The Natural Kitchen: SOY! (Prima Publishing, 1996).