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The Ultimate Scrambled Tofu

Natural Health,  April, 1999  by Dana Jacobi

THE RIGHT TOFU AND COOKING TECHNIQUE CREATE A QUICK, SATISFYING BREAKFAST DISH.

NOTHING BEATS A PLATE of scrambled eggs for a quick, satisfying meal. Scrambled tofu can be equally comforting and just as appealing--or it can be dry and unappetizing. Since I love scrambled eggs but avoid eating them, my goal was to produce a basic scrambled tofu recipe that was just as tender and moist as eggs, then improvise some delicious variations. To arrive at the ideal scramble, I experimented with various tofu types and textures, ways to prepare the tofu for scrambling, kinds of pans, and a variety of seasonings. I found there are a few easy tricks to making it the right way.

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CHOOSING THE TOFU Tofu comes in two "families" and three textures. The two families are silken and momengoshi. Silken tofu resembles custard. It is also called kinugoshi or Japanese-style bean curd. Momengoshi, which is also known as cotton or Chinese-style bean curd, is springy in texture--even chewy when it is particularly firm. I call this kind "regular" or "cake-style" tofu because it is rarely labeled by type. Both regular and silken tofu come in soft, firm, and extra-firm densities. To confuse matters, these textures are not consistent from one manufacturer to another. One producer's firm tofu may turn out to be harder than the extra-firm made by someone else. Also, silken tofu of a given density is not comparable to regular tofu of the same density. The silken one will always be softer because it contains more water.

The best way to sort out the question of tofu textures is to do a onetime tofu tasting. Sample several of the readily available brands of tofu in your area, noting how they differ in texture and taste. What can be confusing when expressed in words becomes instantly clear. You will know in one bite which tofu you like the best. (Keep notes when testing that will later guide you when shopping for specific recipes.)

My first decision was easy. Silken tofu is unsuitable for scrambling. Even extra-firm silken tofu disintegrates as you chew it, turning into an unpleasant mush. It's much better suited for recipes where it will be pureed, like cheesecake, or served in liquid, like miso soup.

Among regular tofus, the two firmer densities scramble well. If you like a scramble resembling softly cooked eggs, use firm tofu. In any case, pick tofu with a fresh, clean flavor. Save any that is "beany" to use in an assertively seasoned stir-fry, casserole, or dip.

PREPARING AND COOKING THE TOFU Breaking up the tofu right from the package leaves it too wet. Out of curiosity, I tried pressing the liquid out of the tofu and freezing it before scrambling it. Neither method worked. The pressed tofu was rubbery and the frozen tofu was tough.

Through trial and error, I found a way to eliminate just the right amount of moisture. The cake should be broken into eight pieces, each of which is squeezed dry with your hands and crumbled. This method also makes the uncooked bean curd look like scrambled eggs. A 10-inch, or medium, nonstick skillet works best for scrambles containing one pound of tofu. The coating prevents sticking, even when you use little or no oil, and keeps the tofu from browning.

The goal is to cook the tofu until it releases some moisture and to serve it before it cools and hardens. Use a light hand when greasing the pan: A bit of oil adds a creamy quality, but too much oil will make the scramble slippery when you eat it. Canola is a good oil to use for these recipes because of its blandness. You could use olive oil, but its flavor may compete with the other ingredients.

Finely chopped onion and scallion give the scramble texture as well as flavor. Minute amounts of soy sauce and turmeric add color, along with a creamy quality that is a bit like egg yolk. To help the turmeric and soy sauce blend evenly, add them to the pan first, then immediately stir in the tofu and keep stirring it. Saute the onion to soften it slightly; don't let it color or it will end up tasting burnt.

I added just enough seasoning to the Basic Tofu Scramble to make it look like eggs. Add a bit more soy sauce if you want more flavor, or stir in a cup of sauteed chopped vegetables. Avoid vegetables that release moisture, like tomatoes and grated zucchini, in favor of broccoli, peppers, corn, leeks, and celery. Mushrooms work well if you cook off their liquid before adding the tofu. Soy cheese adds great flavor and texture. Have it shredded and ready to add to the pan once the tofu is cooked.

The Basic Tofu Scramble is fast and simple. If unadorned tofu is too bland for you but you like its nutritional virtues, sample the Breakfast Burrito and the other scrambles I have put together.

BASIC TOFU SCRAMBLE

SERVES 2

You may use firm or extra-firm cake-style, or regular, tofu. Firm tofu makes a slightly moister scramble, which is closer in consistency to scrambled eggs. Depending on the size of each portion, this recipe may make enough for three.