Entrees with fresh spring greens

ONE OF THE SUREST SIGNS of spring is the bountiful array of fresh greens piled high at farmers' markets and in the produce departments of health foods stores and supermarkets. We may even be fortunate enough to grow them ourselves or have friends and neighbors who do.

Fresh greens make delicious main dishes, including salads, soups, stir-fries, casseroles, and more. Besides being full of flavor, they're an excellent source of vitamins and minerals, too, with precious few calories--so we can eat lots of them with nary a worry about gaining extra pounds.

Commonly available greens include curly kale, collards, Swiss chard, spinach, turnip, beet, mustard, and dandelion, plus a huge variety of lettuces. Some are better cooked, others raw. And some, such as spinach, are terrific either way.

When shopping for greens, get the freshest ones you can find. They should be crisp and slightly damp-looking. Plan to use them within two or three days of purchase, if possible.

To keep greens fresh until ready to use, discard any discolored or damaged leaves and store greens loosely packed in plastic bags in the refrigerator. Rinse thoroughly in cold water just before using. If greens are relatively clean when purchased, this can be done under cold, running water. If they contain grit or dirt, rinse well in a sinkful of water, then lift them out carefully, leaving the grit in the sink. Sometimes two or three rinsings may be necessary.

For some recipes, such as soups and stews, gently shaking as much water as possible off the greens is fine. For others, especially salads, spin them in a salad spinner or, if a spinner is unavailable, blot them well on paper towels or dean, lint-free dish towels.

Salad greens, such as baby spinach, baby red chard, and oak leaf lettuce, are beautiful left whole. Others are too large. For large leaves, it's best to tear them. Torn leaves look prettier in a bowl than cut ones, and the exposed edges are less likely to turn brown. If you're cooking the greens, however, go ahead and wield your knife.

Following is a selection of entrees made with fresh greens to enjoy all spring long. Several of the recipes call for using a 12" skillet. If this is unavailable, a 10" stockpot will also work.

CHILI WITH TVP AND MUSTARD GREENS

(Serves 4)

The earthy flavors and aroma of this chili go well with warm or lightly toasted flour tortillas.

I purchased TVP (texturized vegetable protein) granules from a bulk bin at the health foods store. If you can't find these, a single packet of Boca ground "burger" would work just fine. Adobo, a seasoning blend, is available in the ethnic section of well-stocked supermarkets and in groceries catering to a Latino clientele. You may also buy it from a mail order company like Penzeys Spices at <www.penzeys.com>.