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Branson's best season: come fall in the Missouri Ozarks, the nation's music show capital takes on a special glow

Travel America,  Sept-Oct, 2004  by Randy Mink

UNLESS YOU'VE BEEN TO Branson, you've probably never heard of Shoji Tabuchi, a master fiddler from Japan who sports spangly jackets and a n]op of black hair. Night after night, his variety show, a glitzy production with acts much flashier than his own, plays to packed houses of casually dressed middle Americans. A true showman, he's the hottest ticket in town--a town that styles itself as the "Live Entertainment Capital of the World."

In October, the surrounding hillsides glow with fall finely, another crowd-pleaser in this corner of southwest Missouri, 11 miles north of the Arkansas state line. Bright mild days and cool evenings are perfect for sightseeing, and many attractions stay open long past Labor Day.

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The warm weather and autumn hues extend into November, the start of the theaters' big holiday season. And once school's back in session, some of the performers most popular with older audiences return from summer hiatus. From September through December, Branson's busiest time, four in 10 visitors are 65 years and older.

Mention Branson to most folks, and country music comes to mind. But the small town's 40-sorne theaters showcase a whole galaxy of stars, from hillbilly humorists and Elvis impersonators to nationally known entertainers who've decided to settle down in this Ozarks community of 6,500 residents.

This year, for the first time, Branson stages offer more than 100 shows--110 at last count. That's about a dozen more than last year.

Besides a Japanese fiddler, there's Russian comic Yakov Smirnoff, a Branson headliner who this year moved into a larger theater, one built in 1992 by country singer Mel Tillis. Yakov honed his craft in Moscow comedy clubs before emigrating to America in 1976 and is best known for his patriotic refrain "What a country!"

Indeed, almost all performers in Branson celebrate the American way of life, promoting the kind of wholesome, old-fashioned values cherished by the vast majority in their audiences. Shows are family-oriented, tow the line on good taste and unashamedly trumpet God and country. Branson's marketing tag line: "Real American Entertainment."

In addition to time-honored hymns and patriotic anthems, Branson shows focus on '50s and '60s rock 'n' roll, Broadway show tunes, country music, gospel and other middle-of-the-road fare that many of us grew up with. To add an extra dose of nostalgia, sometimes those songs come from the lips of television and recording stars we remember from the good old days.

Crooner Andy Williams, who had his own TV show decades ago, appears with Ann-Margret from Sept. 10 to Oct. 26 at Williams' Moon River Theatre (as they did for six weeks this past spring).

In another flashback, the Lennon Sisters star in "The Welk Show" from Sept. 10 to Dec. 11 at the Welk Resort Theatre, along with a rotating cast of other favorites who appeared on Lawrence Welk's long-running TV show. Featuring honky-tonk piano player Jo Ann Castle, the variety show is in its 11th and final season in Branson but plans to go on the road. (The Welk Theatre this fall also presents Larry Gatlin & The Gatlin Brothers, co-starring country superstar Pam Tillis, daughter of Mel.)

The stars may be aging, but their state-of-the-art theaters rival Las Vegas for technical wizardry and special effects. Jim Stafford, a singer-comedian who had a national TV show in the '70s and appeared regularly on the "Smothers Brothers Comedy Hour" in 1987-88, wows his family audiences with a virtual thrill fide requiring 3-D glasses.

While Stafford resides in a Beverly Hills-style estate overlooking Table Rock Lake, many Branson celebrities make their homes in the gated Pointe Royale golf community, where residents include Williams, the Lennon Sisters and country singer Mickey Gilley, who opened his theater in 1990.

Performers often mingle with their adoring public during intermission or after the show, signing autographs and posing for pictures. Some step aboard departing tour buses to say thank you.

Though Branson boasts more theater seats than New York's Broadway district, its natural setting holds as much--or even more--appeal for vacationers who enjoy boating, swimming and fishing on its three lakes--Table Rock, Taneycomo and Bull Shoals.

The area offers many rivers for canoeing and kayaking, and trails for hiking and horseback riding. Forested landscapes go on for miles, providing endless opportunities for autumn leaf-peeping.

A convenient fall color drive is the new Ozark Mountain Highroad, an eight-mile stretch from U.S. 65 north of Branson to Highway 76, about two miles west of the Branson city limits. There are no houses, stores or billboards in sight--just Ozarks wilderness.

For an entertaining whirl around Table Rock Lake, hop aboard the Showboat Branson Belle. Through December, lunch and dinner cruises on the luxury paddlewheeler include the new "Steppin' Out" show, a tribute to family musicals like "The Music Man," "The Wizard of Oz" and "The Lion King." Evening cruises spotlight comedian-ventriloquist Todd Oliver and his two talking dogs, Lucy and Irving.