Chic Caribbean: upscale cruising to offbeat ports aboard Silversea

Another popular option in Antigua was an excursion ($54) that took in English Harbour and Nelson's Dockyard, named for Admiral Horatio Nelson, who served here in the 1700s. On a clear day, from the hilltop Visitors Center it is possible to see Montserrat, 27 miles away.

At Basseterre, St. Kitts, we opted for the Scenic & Historical St. Kitts shore excursion (sold onboard for $60). The program took in the island's highlights including 300-year-old Brimstone Hill Fortress & National Park. Built 780 feet over the Sea, the fortress affords panoramic views of St. Kitts and its neighboring islands including Saba, St. Eustatius, and Nevis. Another stop on our tour was at Romney Botanical Gardens & Caribelle Batik Studios where we could watch local artists produce the distinctively Caribbean island fabric and apparel in a setting of 10 acres of lush tropical gardens.

Tortola, largest of the British Virgin Islands and yet another of our pretty ports, was a jumping off point for the Baths at Virgin Gorda, one of the Caribbean's most famous natural wonders. A full-day tour with lunch to the Baths was offered onboard ($112), or passengers could take the local ferry ($20 roundtrip) across the Sir Francis Drake Channel to Virgin Gorda and proceed by taxi to the Baths. The main attraction in the British Virgin Islands, the Baths are almost other-worldly in appearance--their approach has huge boulders strewn across arid ground like rocks thrown around by a careless giant. The boulders are a reminder of a volcanic eruption that geologists calculate took place 70 million years ago, Jellicoe said.

In the Baths' area itself, more giant boulders are strewn--some in precarious positions--along a white ribbon of sand. Weathered by the elements, the boulders have created a series of incredible pools, grottoes, and caverns. We counted 11 different shades of blue in the waters of the Baths. Standing on the sand in front of an Aqua-Velva-blue pool with a flute of champagne in hand--sipping the bubbly, but drinking in the scenery in big gulps--was as chic as it gets.

But if the ports-of-call were indeed chic, so was the Silver Whisper herself. The yacht-like vessel has 194 suites--all outside--and more than 80 percent of them boast private verandas (we enjoyed ours every day for hours and hours, as is often the case in warm-water cruising).

Elegantly appointed with fine woods and artwork, the suites have marble baths, European soaps and other amenities, walk-in closet, mini-refrigerator, fine crystal, luxurious bed linens and bath towels, personalized stationery, television and videocassette player. Thoughtful touches include bathrobes and slippers, binoculars and umbrella for use during the voyage, and a complimentary supply of mineral water, sodas, and beer replenished daily by our attentive stewardess.

The Restaurant onboard features Relais & Chateaux Collection du Monde gourmet fare every evening plus Silversea's chefs' own creations for memorable, six-course dinners. The informal dining room, the Terrace Cafe, features bountiful buffets for breakfast (including the traditional morning fare plus succulent mango and papaya slices, berries, and fresh-squeezed orange juice). For lunch at the cafe--it was often a pleasure to enjoy it alfresco in the outdoor section in the rear of the restaurant--the selection comprised quiches, salads, seafood (including prawns), sushi, pizzas, several hot entrees, a station for the preparation of pasta dishes, and half-a-dozen desserts plus fresh fruits and ice creams. The cafe also presents internationally themed, no-fee dinners each night featuring specialties of Italian, French, Asian, and other cuisines.